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New Build and reliability tipping point

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16 replies to this topic

#1
Hylndr

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So about to have a build of engine and trans and looking for experiences from those who have builds of 1200-1300 HP and a Shep 1k.  At what point does daily drive reliability drop off?  What have been the pros/cons of your similar builds?  My thinking is I'm going to shoot for a build to max out Shep 1k and keep it there so i can still enjoy some reliability and daily use.  If you HAVE a similar build would like to hear from you.  thanks


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#2
Edmgtr

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bump this thread


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#3
kareltuning

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So about to have a build of engine and trans and looking for experiences from those who have builds of 1200-1300 HP and a Shep 1k.  At what point does daily drive reliability drop off?  What have been the pros/cons of your similar builds?  My thinking is I'm going to shoot for a build to max out Shep 1k and keep it there so i can still enjoy some reliability and daily use.  If you HAVE a similar build would like to hear from you.  thanks

 

Your drivability is based mostly on the tune. At that power level a decent build is very user friendly and should drive pretty much like stock if you use a 12 injector manifold and 1100cc primary injectors. Your engine tune must be on point an torque signals sent to TCM in sync with the transmission tune since it will want to shift harsh if torque reduction and other points are not addressed. Like all builds, let the engine warm up before revving since it will have more clearance on the pistons. Above 140F oil temp you are good to go since your coolant temp is stable already. Use quality oil recommended by your engine builder and you should have a car that drives no different than when it had 800hp


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#4
Reano

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So about to have a build of engine and trans and looking for experiences from those who have builds of 1200-1300 HP and a Shep 1k.  At what point does daily drive reliability drop off?  What have been the pros/cons of your similar builds?  My thinking is I'm going to shoot for a build to max out Shep 1k and keep it there so i can still enjoy some reliability and daily use.  If you HAVE a similar build would like to hear from you.  thanks

What is your current build and I’ll let you know differences you will have up to this level. I’m at 1100hp and 850 torque 


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#5
Enshiu

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1300hp is turn point I guess



Been working with enshiu on my car for the past 2 days. This guy is a mad scientist. He knows his stuff about GT-Rs. We spent the past few days changing brakes, rotors and upgrading my  gotboost full intercooler piping. Enshiu will post pics of my car later.

 

My project:

 

http://www.gtrherita...-600whp-upgrade


#6
Reano

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The main things I notice are.

 

1) expect more noise. Lots of people like this but it depends where you live e.g. neighbours, etc and can become tiresome in normal driving and motorway/freeway

2) Gears will make a whirring sound if you change. It’s fine but that’s a difference

3) if you go 12 injector that will make a louder sound also.

4) drive is same as OEM if 1050cc injectors or less much more and some thing is slightly different, idle, response, etc. It will be good but not the same.

5) Weaknesses start to show up more, because you get up to speed faster then oem brakes show their weakness (even before), handling will be the same. You basically have to start spending to make sure the overall package doesn’t go out of balance.

6) gears will feel more clunky when changing than stock. Some like some don’t, due to stronger clutch, gearset, etc.

 

with the GTR you have distinct phases 1 is stock - stage 2. It’s how it should be from the factory. Stage 4.25 is the sweet spot for cost, performance (670 - 750). Next is c1000 - 1300 expensive but can create very good track car and drive daily.  Much higher than this and you really have to spend “a lot of money” and you begin to lose that daily drive ability, noise level, etc.


Edited by Reano, 23 June 2021 - 01:42 AM.

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#7
droptopp

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^ stage 4.25 ?
Cicio Performance billet Crank 4.1 w/ CP billet pistons, Zenith R turbos, Cicio wet sump oling upgrade, flex fuel, ETS mid, down pipe, race FMIC, STM titanium axle back, ID2000s, Shep One K with drop gears, DS Axles, Volk Saga 18 10/12 (MT ET Streets), Advan GT Premium 20 R888. 1450+ hp / 1210+ tq

Old setups : more AMS motors than anyone I know - Alpha 9 w/ AMS 3.8, GTX3582R Gen II w/ AMS 4.1 billet crank, GTX3582R Gen II w/ AMS 4.0 big bore billet crank and of course FBO E85.

#8
Reano

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^ stage 4.25 ?

We use this a lot in UK.

 

for the following changes, Cold air intake, new injectors (1050cc), decat down pipes, some also change exhaust and tune that adds c100+ bhp to stock and 100- 150 in torque. It’s the point where costs are still reasonable. After this we also have 4.5 is where you also change the intercooler. Stage 4 you don’t do the down pipe. It’s all marketing gimmick but most know what it means in UK. Basically anything before stage 5 (when you start to change turbo) is reasonable cost.



#9
droptopp

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Gotcha we just call it FBO.
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Cicio Performance billet Crank 4.1 w/ CP billet pistons, Zenith R turbos, Cicio wet sump oling upgrade, flex fuel, ETS mid, down pipe, race FMIC, STM titanium axle back, ID2000s, Shep One K with drop gears, DS Axles, Volk Saga 18 10/12 (MT ET Streets), Advan GT Premium 20 R888. 1450+ hp / 1210+ tq

Old setups : more AMS motors than anyone I know - Alpha 9 w/ AMS 3.8, GTX3582R Gen II w/ AMS 4.1 billet crank, GTX3582R Gen II w/ AMS 4.0 big bore billet crank and of course FBO E85.

#10
Reano

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Gotcha we just call it FBO.

Fully built ....?



#11
Tim

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Fully built ....?

Full bolt on’FBO’


 

 


#12
Reano

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Ha Thanks :-) So 4.5 = FBO  :)


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#13
Tim

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To answer a couple questions with today’s tech a 1250-1350 hp car can drive just like a stock on.
A 12 injector set up is not gonna make your car any louder but will make it drive better, if your over 1500hp. If your under 6 injectors will work just fine
Exhaust is really what determines your sound
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#14
Reano

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I also used to believe this (and I’ve had several gtrs) tuned by the likes of Litchfield, SVM, Dimitri, Linney, etc. Speaking not as an OEM inside the car it ‘will’ sound louder than OEM from the sound of the injectors in 12 injector setup to the gearbox whirl, exhaust, it will not be like stock. Whoever says that is to be frank not right. Now I’m not saying it won’t be an acceptable sound but to say it’s like stock is factually provable to not be true but hey ….

 

ive gotten used to the marketing and as soon as a tuner says same as stock, then hey. I’ve never heard or seen any 1300bhp that sounds like stock but willing to be proven wrong. Not trying to start a forum war just saying …


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#15
Hylndr

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Hadn’t been back here in a bit, great replies, appreciate the info dudes. Been a long 6 months but Tobz is telling me July since all parts are in and build is progressing. I’m gonna drive the #%^+* out of it with whatever is left of my summer. Hell, you might even find me sleeping in it. If anyone is in COS let’s hook up for a drive.
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#16
droptopp

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^^ Awesome man glad to hear !!!!

GTRs are funny animals. Built ones are definitely loud, but so are stock ones lol. Local dudes bellhousing makes more noise than mine at idle.
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Cicio Performance billet Crank 4.1 w/ CP billet pistons, Zenith R turbos, Cicio wet sump oling upgrade, flex fuel, ETS mid, down pipe, race FMIC, STM titanium axle back, ID2000s, Shep One K with drop gears, DS Axles, Volk Saga 18 10/12 (MT ET Streets), Advan GT Premium 20 R888. 1450+ hp / 1210+ tq

Old setups : more AMS motors than anyone I know - Alpha 9 w/ AMS 3.8, GTX3582R Gen II w/ AMS 4.1 billet crank, GTX3582R Gen II w/ AMS 4.0 big bore billet crank and of course FBO E85.

#17
Reano

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Hadn’t been back here in a bit, great replies, appreciate the info dudes. Been a long 6 months but Tobz is telling me July since all parts are in and build is progressing. I’m gonna drive the #%^+* out of it with whatever is left of my summer. Hell, you might even find me sleeping in it. If anyone is in COS let’s hook up for a drive.

Excellent drive it like you stole it man and the GTR will say “is that all you got”


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