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KW Sleeve Kit install

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#1
choerizo

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Here's my guide to installing the KW sleeves on a CBA GT-R. DBA suspension may differ slightly. Disclaimer: install at your own risk. If you are not comfortable with suspension components, consult a professional.  

 

That aside, on to the photos!

 

This is the kit I purchased (used). Note that while this guide is for the KW sleeve kit, the same procedure can be used to install an updated DBA suspension, any aftermarket coilovers like JRZ, or the common swift springs.

 

IMG_0823.JPG

 

Start by disconnecting the adjustable suspension cable while the car is still on the ground. This is what allows for Comfort/Normal/R mode on our Bilsteins. It's delicate so I would recommend wrapping the tip with tape. 

 

IMG_0780.JPG

 

Immediately you will notice that in order to disassemble the strut, you'll need a special tool to get access to the nut while letting the cable pass through. I purchased a Max Axxess socket wrench with a 17mm Max Axxess socket from Sears. It was about $20 total and well worth it. A lot of suspension nuts/bolts are 17mm on the car so it will get much use.

 

IMG_0782.JPG

 

Note how it allows for cable pass through.

 

IMG_0783.JPG

 

Loosen the top suspension nut (the one in the middle, not the three supporting the strut). This is 17mm. Use your fancy new tool. It's on pretty tight so you may need to extend on your jack handle to get extra leverage. If you can't get past this part, I would not continue. You may want to remove the upper intercooler hoses to give yourself more room.

 

IMG_0784.JPG

 

Now get the car up on jack stands and remove the wheels. Do one side at a time. In actuality, there are only a few bolts to remove to get the strut out but they are torqued extremely high and depending on your exposure to rain/rust your ability to remove them will be greatly affected. There were some nuts I could not even break loose with a break bar. I highly recommend a portable impact wrench to continually apply torque and hammering motions to remove as many of the nuts as you can. Your space is limited under the wheel well too.

 

Here are shots of the passenger side suspension with the bolts needing to be removed.

 
IMG_0789b.jpg IMG_0791b.jpg

Edited by choester, 23 March 2015 - 10:08 AM.

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#2
choerizo

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Start by removing the end link bolt that attaches to the lower arm (bolt #4, 17mm). This allows for the suspension to be shifted downwards, thus allowing you to pull the strut out.

 

Next, remove the top control arm bolt (bolt #1, 14mm). It's important to note that many of these components are under load. Nothing will "spring" out at you, but knowing which way the forces are exerted will help you pull the bolts out more easily and without stripping the bolt threads.  Because the top control arm wants to return to its normal position, it is helpful to push downwards on the arm and upwards on the knuckle. The bolt should then slide out. Once the bolt is out, the whole front suspension will go loose and will have a tendency to fall outwards. Use string or cabling to keep it from falling completely over as it may rip the axle boots.

 

IMG_0792b.jpg

 

Detach the brake line nuts (nuts #2 and #3, 12mm) and speed sensors from the strut.

 

IMG_0797a.jpg

 

Remove the lower strut bolt (bolt #5, 17mm). Push downwards to relieve the stress on the bolt. It should slide right out.

 

Remove the top bolts (under the hood) holding the strut in (three 12mm nuts with washers). At this point, the strut should be completely free and not attached to anything. However getting it out from under the wheel well is like a Tetris problem. I had to remove the upper control arms to get more room to swing the top portion of the strut out. To do this, pull the strut outward as much as you can to get access to the control arm bolts (bolts #6 & #7, 17mm). 

 

Free at last!

 

IMG_0819.JPG

 

Top of the strut:

 

IMG_0820.JPG

 

The wheel well should now look like this.

 

IMG_0815.JPG IMG_0816.JPG

 

OEM upper control arm. This would be a good time to swap with fancy aftermarket ones that allow for more camber. Or if you are poor like me, continue to use stock arms.

 

IMG_0822.JPG


Edited by choester, 14 March 2015 - 01:19 AM.

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#3
choerizo

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Completely disassemble the OEM Bilstein. To do this, you will need spring compressors. You don't need to compress it much since the GTR suspension is so stiff to begin with, probably just 3/4". You will know when it is enough when the springs start to rotate freely around the shock. Remove the top 17mm nut to pull the top hat off (you did loosen this BEFORE removing it from the car right??). Start by tapping off the small metal washer at the top with a hammer and flat head screw driver. Do the same with the top metal dust cap. Lastly, the spring perch will come off by tapping back and forth on opposite sides. Work it off slowly.

 

Here should be all the parts you have once disassembled.

 

IMG_0837.JPG IMG_0854.JPG

 

Next I recommend taking the time to clean everything. Clean your shocks, clean under the wheel well, clean the rubber boots, clean the bushings, clean your brakes, clean your wheels. You don't have to, but it will look nice and keep your suspension parts working better. These are moving parts, so any abrasives (dirt, grime, sand, etc.) you can get out of the system the better.

 

IMG_0846.JPG IMG_0848.JPG

 

I always wondered what kept the springs from falling downwards. There is a small lip on the shock that keeps everything from sliding down.

 

IMG_0832a.jpg


Edited by choester, 14 March 2015 - 09:40 AM.

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#4
choerizo

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If you haven't yet already, go grab a beer and look at the mess you've made (but your parts should be clean now!). Time to put stuff back together!

 

IMG_0839.JPG

 

Make sure you reattach the old washer back on.

 

IMG_0840a.jpg

 

Full assembled:

 

IMG_0845.JPG

 

I decided to pre-adjust the collar 1" from the bottom.

 

IMG_0853.JPG

 

You should be left with these old parts.

 

IMG_0873.JPG

 

 


Edited by choester, 14 March 2015 - 01:27 AM.

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#5
choerizo

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And now time to put things back. Everything should be done in reverse order from when you took them out. Don't forget that red flange that goes on top of the strut. 

 

When replacing the upper control arm, you want to preload the bushings so they don't get stressed out. Make sure you restore the arm back to its original "resting" position.

 

IMG_0861.JPG

 

IMG_0862.JPG

 

IMG_0867.JPG

 

 


Edited by choester, 14 March 2015 - 01:35 AM.

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#6
icarus

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nice one man! I don't think this has been documented before... great pics too!
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2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#7
choerizo

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Thanks! All iPhone taken. Will work on rears this weekend.



#8
descartesfool

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I look forward to the rear on weekends too. 


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#9
HiBoost

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^ LOL


Thanks for taking the time to document this choester!
-Jeff

#10
shawnhayes

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Pinned and linked.

 

Shawn



#11
icarus

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Did you consider trimming the bump stops on the shocks?  I worry about lowering the car and then under full compression the shock bottoming out on the bump stop.  But then again maybe you don't want the car to compress more than that bump stop normally allows?


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2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#12
choerizo

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Did you consider trimming the bump stops on the shocks?  I worry about lowering the car and then under full compression the shock bottoming out on the bump stop.  But then again maybe you don't want the car to compress more than that bump stop normally allows?

 

I'm assuming that's the purpose of the bump stop. I'll give it a further review once I am able to test it out on the road/circuit.

 

One thing I did notice that was odd was the upper spring cap (the large purple piece only on the fronts) mounts right up to the shock mount, aluminum on aluminum. Also, there are only three points where it makes contact with the upper mount. I tried putting in the rubber bushing but it wouldn't fit. The instructions for the rear appear to reuse the rubber bushing.

 

top.jpg


Edited by choester, 15 March 2015 - 12:03 AM.


#13
icarus

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There are some rub marks on the top of that bump stop, which perhaps suggests it was coming into play at some point, under full compression.

So, if you lower the car, is there less travel for the shock, and will that bump stop come into play sooner?

 

I remember back in my M3 days guys would trim their bump stops to avoid this when installing shorter springs.

 

Maybe TopSpeed or another shop can chime in on this.


2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#14
icarus

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Forty-two pointed me to the setup TopSpeed ran their OLOA GT-R using the KW setup:

http://www.gtrlife.c...t=460&start=460

 

For those interested here are the chassis setup specs, use at your own risk as they are based off running the KW Sleves, Stillen bars, aero and 315 square setup. However it should be a good start for anyone running a GTR with square tire setup.

-2.4 front camber
-2.2 rear camber

3mm total toe out in the front (1.5mm each side L/R)

2mm toe in on the rear (1mm in each side L/R)



 

For ride height you need to buy a snap gauge or telescoping gauge. Ride height is measured from the center indention of the 4 black jack pads of the car to the ground. 

Ride height should be 145mm on all 4 corners. This is based off the 315/35/20 PSS tire that has an overall diameter of 28.7" so if your running a different tire you will need to adjust the ride height based off half the difference of the tire size.

 



If your running the Stillen sway bars which I would highly recommend, start with full stiff front and full soft rear. This will be a good starting setting as it will give the car just a hint of entry and mid corner push. As you get used to the handling bring the front bar to the middle setting. If your running any other bars good luck as they run way to large a rear bar and do not allow the car to power down on corner exit.


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2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#15
7racer

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That's pretty damn low isn't it?

In7anity!!


#16
icarus

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Don't know, I need a telescoping guage to measure my stock ride height... lol
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#17
7racer

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145mm is about 6 inch, but from the center indentation would probably be another inch so about 5 inches off the ground?!?!


In7anity!!


#18
descartesfool

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Don't know, I need a telescoping guage to measure my stock ride height... lol

 

telescoping-picture.jpg

 

and then you need a caliper to measure the telescoping gauge. Very common to measure bores in engines or bearing housing, etc. Great tool to have if you build stuff.

 

15 bucks from Harborfreight: http://www.harborfre...e-set-5649.html


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#19
icarus

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Just went and picked up the guages. I measured 138mm front 145mm rear on a completely stock 2014 GT-R.

So, I'm already lower than the TopSpeed car. lol

The 315/35/20 tire they were running is spec'ed at 28.7 inches which is 0.7 inches larger than OEM sizes. But that should mean the car sits only 0.35 inches higher right?

Maybe the jack pads are different between their 09 and my 14...
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2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#20
choerizo

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That sounds about right... I measured my front after the KW install and it was 5.25in (133mm). If you add the .35in tire difference, that's 5.6in or 142mm which is pretty close. For me it basically translated to about a .5" drop on the front.

 

drop.jpg







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