32 replies to this topic

[tg07]

You will need drag radials at a minimum to put that power down on the street. Once you do that, you can throw out the window the amazing handling qualities this car has. Something to think about if handling is up there on your priority list.

Good point that I wasn’t really considering. I planned on running 20” MPSS for the street.

[droptopp]

Better go with Motec then - even with R888 you’ll be stuck on your wastegate map and even then probably ice skates up top.

[tg07]

Well you guys aren’t helping to sell me on this build. Lol

I’m open to a different wheel/tire setup. Or maybe I go back to the original plan of an Omega 12 setup. Less power, but would be a great street setup.

[droptopp]

Lol I know right, it sucks with all the variables.

Believe it or not you get used to it pretty quick. I take the GTR out when I just wanna chill and cruise and middle lane it going 55-65 lol - it’s really trolling. I’ll take the Honda out if I feel like high speed turns.

I’d seriously call Jan and have a chat. Think he runs R888 on the street from time to time and he’s got a shit ton more power than me and can give you the pluses and minuses

Edited by droptopp, 12 December 2020 - 02:25 PM.

[PurEvl]

Well you guys aren’t helping to sell me on this build. Lol

I’m open to a different wheel/tire setup. Or maybe I go back to the original plan of an Omega 12 setup. Less power, but would be a great street setup.

Go huracan

[tg07]

Go huracan

On the radar, but I need to add onto the garage first.

[socalaviator]

Well you guys aren’t helping to sell me on this build. Lol

I’m open to a different wheel/tire setup. Or maybe I go back to the original plan of an Omega 12 setup. Less power, but would be a great street setup.

If you want to win street races and $ is involved go BIG turbo + Motec + slicks.

If you want a really FUN street car get a stock manifold modern set up with sticky street tire options. We live in a world with a platform where HP has reached a point that MORE HP does not necessarily mean MORE FUN. You’d be amazed at how much fun fast spool can be on the streets even if that means giving up a couple hundred horsepower. Latest iteration of Garrett turbos has narrowed the gap of spool vs horsepower. Looking back I wish I would have chosen an even quicker spooling turbo myself.

I have an HKS GT1000 build and I rarely find myself using the full power. I’m literally at the limits of R888R tires and beyond their limits during the winter when the ground is a bit cooler and lower DA. How fast do you really want to go on the streets? Most quick spooling turbos will outperform the bigger turbos below 100mph on city streets from my experience.

[Hylndr]

Let me jump back in here guys. I don’t Think I’ll sleep as well unless I do the crank. I reached out to my builder to let him know I was going to toss in the money for a 4.1 L billet crank but surprisingly he recommended I stay with a 3.8 setup Even if I was replacing the stock crank with a billet one. He said He prefers the 3.8 as it causes less angular wear and other related issues. Damn thought I had it all straight and decided but now I’m deciding between 3.8 or 4.1, thoughts? Also, is the drag pack worth the extra $3k on the Shep1k? I’m going to be doing most of my racing on the street (I never said that), is it still a good idea?

[droptopp]

Hey Man,

The 4.1 isn’t really needed these days with how fast the new turbos spool. Will you gain some rpm on the street with a 4.1, sure you will, but you can always downshift too. Now that I said that, the 4.1 spools so damn fast on the street I love it lol.

I’d chat with your builder and go with whatever will give you the most longevity. At the end of the day that’s all that really matters.

If you think about the extra $3k over the cost of the trans build or the entire build, or worse the cost of not having it and then having an issue down the road, it’s kind of cheap insurance.

Give John a call or send him an email and tell him what you are going to do and he’ll tell ya what you need. If he says, gives you some added strength, then it’s a nice brainer.

Good luck brother - I remember these days lol. Go to bed with your mind made up on the build and wake up and change it hahah.

[Hylndr]

Thanks dude, and you’re right about that, every decision I’ve waffled on at least once! I’m taking my builders advice and sticking with 3.8, I need it to last long as possible. Thanks for the scoop.

[tg07]

Good luck brother - I remember these days lol. Go to bed with your mind made up on the build and wake up and change it hahah.

 

That's exactly where I'm at.  I've gone back and forth so many times...The car is plenty fast as-is, but it could be even more fun.

Edited by tg07, 21 December 2020 - 09:24 AM.

[Hylndr]

15X Build updates: 3.8 not 4.1 but higher compression pistons (need this builds to last and problem free as possible) billet crank for peace of mind, stage 2 head porting, SBD intercooler, added fuel rail so I can keep current 1300 injectors, drag pack for the Shep1 as discussed.
Here’s what I need help with as I don’t know a damn thing about wheels tires and offsets. I have a 2014 track edition and going with Volk te37 18” wheels with MT street radials. What do I ask for on front and back to not have issues with clearing calipers and no tire rubbing front or back? What width, (9.5 or 10 on front?) (10.5 or 11 back?) and what offsets? Treat me like an idiot please cause I really don’t know much about this subject. My wife is going to come for a visit from Tokyo in feb (married to a jp woman and we live in both countries) so I’m going to see if she can pick them up and bring them with her since I’m not back to jp till March.

[droptopp]

RAYS VOLK Racing TE37 Saga (Forged Monoblock)
Front Spec: 18×10.0 +35mm 5×114.3 (Face 4)
Rear Spec: 18×12.0 +26mm 5×114.3 (Face 5)

Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S 275/45 and 345/35 - both 27.8 rolling circumference

They change the characteristics of handling coming from a 20” and if you have grooves on your roads from tractor trailers keep a hand on the wheel