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Ecutek Anomaly?

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16 replies to this topic

#1
socalaviator

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Drove the car 2 days ago. Several WOT runs no issues. Driving like a champ. Pulling into garage I reset a DTC for "random cylinder misfire" which I get on occasion at idle and shit off car.

Today: all steering wheel Ecutek functions do not work (boost adjust, map switching, etc...) These switches work for their cruise control functions just fine.

Also at WOT I got flashing CEL light in 3rd and 4th gear around 5k before failsafes kicked in. Couldn't replicate in 2nd gear. Not sure if it's related or not
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#2
5ive

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Either Drive to a Garage or get it transported to the garage, the DTC could be serious, failsafes kicking in means if they not kicked in probably the engine would be toast.

 

greetings,

Robert



#3
socalaviator

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Either Drive to a Garage or get it transported to the garage, the DTC could be serious, failsafes kicking in means if they not kicked in probably the engine would be toast.
 
greetings,
Robert


The DTC is nothing serious. It has happened several times to me at idle with the big injectors. Recent Logs confirm all the vitals are good. Just weird phantom knock at all engine speeds.

The part I'm trying to find an answer for is why my steering wheel controls no longer function!
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#4
Tim

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I would send your tuner a log


 

 


#5
colo_evo

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The part I'm trying to find an answer for is why my steering wheel controls no longer function!

What rom are you on? I had a similar issue where I couldn't use steering wheel commands when my tank was full. The fix was moving to a different rom.

Here's what I got from ecutek:
"There is a bug with KB50 and KB54 ROMs that stops map switching working above 3/4 tank of fuel or thereabouts."

The fix for me was to move to kj12c rom.

Edited by colo_evo, 20 December 2019 - 10:42 AM.

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#6
socalaviator

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I would send your tuner a log


Tim. I did. Trying to figure out where the phantom knock is coming from at the moment. One day ran perfect. 2 days later pull it out of garage and shows -7 knock but vitals are good. After I get it back from local shop (new wheel studs getting installed) going to experiment more.
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#7
socalaviator

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What rom are you on? I had a similar issue where I couldn't use steering wheel commands when my tank was full. The fix was moving to a different rom.

Here's what I got from ecutek:
"There is a bug with KB50 and KB54 ROMs that stops map switching working above 3/4 tank of fuel or thereabouts."

The fix for me was to move to kj12c rom.


I think you are on to something. My tank was above 3/4 tank. Weird thing is that this issue occurred from litwrally one day to the next? No changes done on my end.
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#8
gc1000

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Phantom knock? What if it’s actual knock? Who’s the tuner? I had a tuner telling me about “phantom knock” in my engine. Then I decided to tune it myself and now I have no knock and a safe strong tune. If your car is pulling -7, I’d be scared about damaging it. Ask Doug to review your log, or actually post your log here and we can see what’s up.
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#9
socalaviator

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Phantom knock? What if it’s actual knock? Who’s the tuner? I had a tuner telling me about “phantom knock” in my engine. Then I decided to tune it myself and now I have no knock and a safe strong tune. If your car is pulling -7, I’d be scared about damaging it. Ask Doug to review your log, or actually post your log here and we can see what’s up.

I attached the log. I have many failsafes to protect the motor. As you can see in the log, the failsafe kicked in. Yes need to figure out why from one day to the next I have this knock issue. Same tank of gas, same calibration, 2 days apart. Notice how it shows -7 even before I begin my WOT. Could still be engine noise but nothing I can hear at all.

Btw, Ecutek got back to me and mentioned there is indeed an anomaly that they are trying to work on. At certain fuel levels in MY2011 cars, the steering wheel functions may be inoperative. Weird thing is, this is the first time this has ever happened to me.

Attached Files


Edited by socalaviator, 21 December 2019 - 07:57 AM.

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#10
gc1000

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I'm just an amateur at looking at these logs, but my car would be knocking like crazy too if the ignition timing curve looked like that.  It's already pulling 7 degrees of timing when the log starts.  Do a third gear pull to redline and log the whole thing when you get a chance.  Then you could see when/where the knock starts. 

 

I'd send to Doug to see if he'll review it.  He'll know.



#11
socalaviator

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I'm just an amateur at looking at these logs, but my car would be knocking like crazy too if the ignition timing curve looked like that. It's already pulling 7 degrees of timing when the log starts. Do a third gear pull to redline and log the whole thing when you get a chance. Then you could see when/where the knock starts.

I'd send to Doug to see if he'll review it. He'll know.

I need to do more testing but take a look at how it's showing -7 of knock even before the engine is under any load.

I have been using (and logging) this exact calibration for several months now with no issues (or knock) at all. I did a 2nd gear pull soon after this log with no issues although I didn't log that one. Could be real knock but if it is I don't understand why previous logs look good without any issues for months and then from one day to the next this pops up

Thanks for taking the time to look.

Edited by socalaviator, 21 December 2019 - 08:30 AM.

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#12
Doug@WGP

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If the knock appeared at the same time as the misfire codes it wouldn’t be a bad idea to check your plugs and injectors. Is this a stock motor car? What mods are on it?

-7 is way too much. It’s going to break if you keep that up. Anything over -3 should trip the failsafe and be of concern.
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#13
gc1000

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Log a third gear pull from 2500 rpm to 6500. Just floor it and let it rev out. Maybe can see when/where the knock starts.

#14
socalaviator

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If the knock appeared at the same time as the misfire codes it wouldn’t be a bad idea to check your plugs and injectors. Is this a stock motor car? What mods are on it?

-7 is way too much. It’s going to break if you keep that up. Anything over -3 should trip the failsafe and be of concern.

 

Doug. It's a 3.8 l build. Manley/CP bottom end. Kelford cams, springs, ferrea valve guides. Race Intercooler. Fore Trie, 1700cc, AMS Rails + FPR.

-7 followed by failsafe kicking in. This was on my 25psi map only. Just 2 days prior I did a half dozen pulls on the same map and not one issue-never had this issue the past year and a half since build completion.

I only get the random cyclinder misfire code once in a rare while and only when idling for long periods or low rpm cruising (parking lots looking for parking spots, etc..) Never following or during WOT or high throttle position pulls.

Once I get car back from getting new wheel studs installed I will do better logs.


 

Log a third gear pull from 2500 rpm to 6500. Just floor it and let it rev out. Maybe can see when/where the knock starts.


Yes. This would be a much better way of doing a log than what I provided. Will check back soon.
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#15
gc1000

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Also, if you have the Bluetooth adaptor and the phone app, set one of your gauges to monitor dynamic advance and just keep an eye on it as you drive around.  You'll be able to see if you're getting knock in your normal driving conditions.  Your tune may not have the SES set to flash until -5,6 or who knows.  You could be driving around knocking all the time and have no way to know unless you were watching that gauge and/or logging.



#16
Doug@WGP

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I'd also comment that it seems unlikely that the oem knock detection is working correctly on a built motor without significant effort put into tuning the frequency and threshold tables and in my experience that's typically a waste of time because it still doesn't work as intended... So normally when I see people complaining about lots of reported knock on built engine cars it makes me think their tunes haven't been done on a dyno or haven't been optimized by the tuners.  In some cases, false knock that pulls the timing way down can actually do more damage to the engine than if it were really knocking because it will skyrocket the EGT and cylinder pressures, which can make you lift a head or melt a piston, etc.


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Doug Ross
Owner of Weapons Grade Performance
-Northeast/Pacific Northwest Shops where we ONLY work on GT-Rs
-Owner/Builder of the 1st Ever Home Garage GT-R Drivetrain Removal
Cobb Protuner / EcuTek Tuner / MoTec Calibrator
-Mainline Dyno in House
doug@weaponsgradeperformance.com
Our Online Store
East Coast Location 21B Ozick Dr, Durham, CT   West Coast Location 16726 146th St SE, Monroe, WA


#17
socalaviator

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Doug,

My tune was done on a dyno and finalized on the street. Several small revisions but car always ran like a champ. (Logs showed no issues for over a year of logs) . I drove it last Monday on my 25psi map with several pulls. No issues (just like always) and then 2 days later- same map and this issue arises.

I need to do more logs. This issue came up on my way to get wheel studs replaced so I didn't have much more time (or room in traffic) to do many more than just 1 log.
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