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HIGH Performance Turbo Driving Techniques

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6 replies to this topic

#1
Geno88

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So forgive me if this thread elementary, but since owning my 16 Premium, i've always been all-alert as to the power band, correct gear to be in and trying to feel the turbo spool up, maximum power, etc of driving a turbo. 

 

Coming from american muscle, I'm used to normally aspirated big blocks, 671 blown small blocks and NOS, but the turbo engines are so very different.

 

There are times when I can totally feel the rush and there are times whereas I just miss the "art"

 

Can you guys (girls) tell me your prep for a freeway pull, say going 60-70? gear choice - throttle positioning, boost build up?

 

thanks!


Edited by Geno88, 10 August 2018 - 06:15 AM.


#2
franzcars

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For a stock turbo setup, 3rd is best for a 60-70 punch since the turbos spool very quickly. There's not a real need for boost building on stock turbos, however if you're tuned, you can use rolling antilag to get a bit of an advantage, and it'll maintain speed and control throttle for you. As a note, for a 40 roll, second is preferred 


  • Geno88 likes this
2013 Premium Deep Blue Pearl with 285/35 PSS's front, 18"NT05R's rear, SIR USM's, HKS Upgraded Actuators, TiTek 90mm Downpipes, AAM Resonated Midpipe, GotBoost intakes, GotBoost SD kit, Visconti Flex Fuel, Bosch 2200's, Fore tripple pump with with twin 485's DIY hardwired, Ecutek Etune by Bill@SprayItRacing
Appearance: TSW Nurburing rear, Diode Dynamics Tail as Turn with quad backup lights, always on front DRLs, Diode Dynamics LED City, Trunk, Map and License Plate lights
 
530AWHP with a Cobb OTS stage 1 only
555AWHP with MP/tune from Linney
Best ET 10.52@128 with midpipe/tune/NT05R's
 
Gone but never forgotten, Memorial Day 2017

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#3
droptopp

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Hey Geno, blowers and nitrous here as well. Turbos are a bit different but you will get used to them quick.

On a stock frame, I always saw 60-130’s .2-.3 quicker starting in second. Stress on the drivetrain is the same since the next gear is loaded anyways.

I have always run Cobb and when they came out with AutoShift it was a no brainer for rolls. Hold any gear and just stomp on it and 7800 (or whatever rpm set) shift. Makes for flawless runs.

Stock/stock frames spool quick so you don’t have to wait long, but you will need to be in the right gear to get going. Can’t use the blown v8 instant tq like your probably used too.

Enjoy and get some seat time / practice. Could pick up a vbox or dragy box and no questions on what works best for performance for you.
  • Geno88 likes this
GTX3582R built and tuned by STM, AMS 4.1, Omega billet crank, Alpha Cams, STM DP, MP, 4 STM Titanium custom exhaust, STM Race FMIC 22x18x4.5, full 3" piping, ID 2000, Sheptrans OneK drop gears, DS axles, E85, Advan GT 10/12 285/315 R888 / MT ET 18x10/12 TE37 Saga MT ET SS 275/245.
Heartbreaker Mustang 1186 E70 low boost. Dynojet 1350 +/- 60-130 3.5 seconds. 100-150 3.4 seconds.

#4
Geno88

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Thanks for the advice! 

 

I know that this is a generalized question, but.............for spirited and semi-spirited driving, would it be safe to let the car idle for about a minute before shut off, or is there a science about the oil temp before shut off? Keep in mind that it's 100+ friggen degrees here in So-cal........



#5
Carmiwrx

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Turbo timers are under utilized. Letting your car cool before shut down is good for the turbo(s).
RIP: C. O, E. H., C.S-K.

I popped my motor after 4yrs and 8k miles which all of them were hard miles like a dude fucking his first piece of pussy after doing 5yrs in the joint. -Tim S.


GTR heritage - come get some!

#6
droptopp

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From Eric @ AMS from 2010 :

Turbo timers on late model cars are not needed. So long as you are driving the car at a normal level for a minute or two after you romp on it you are doing everything a turbo timer would of done. That and the oil being fed to turbo's now a days is so slight that the opportunity to have it "cake up" is not really a problem.

long and short...waste of money

On a side note - anyone hear from Eric these days?
  • thehelix112 likes this
GTX3582R built and tuned by STM, AMS 4.1, Omega billet crank, Alpha Cams, STM DP, MP, 4 STM Titanium custom exhaust, STM Race FMIC 22x18x4.5, full 3" piping, ID 2000, Sheptrans OneK drop gears, DS axles, E85, Advan GT 10/12 285/315 R888 / MT ET 18x10/12 TE37 Saga MT ET SS 275/245.
Heartbreaker Mustang 1186 E70 low boost. Dynojet 1350 +/- 60-130 3.5 seconds. 100-150 3.4 seconds.

#7
Carmiwrx

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Precision just talked about this recently on their youtube channel. Not that eric isn't the man or that his experience doesn't count - but this is a manufacturer speaking.
RIP: C. O, E. H., C.S-K.

I popped my motor after 4yrs and 8k miles which all of them were hard miles like a dude fucking his first piece of pussy after doing 5yrs in the joint. -Tim S.


GTR heritage - come get some!




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