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ARP Extended Wheel Studs questions

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15 replies to this topic

#1
socalaviator

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Looking to install some new wheel studs as I change wheels often nowadays and looking for something stronger and newer.

How much longer are the ARP extended studs vs OEM length?

Typically how many hours of labor would be realistic to remove OEM studs and replace with ARP studs?

Is ARP the best brand to choose from?

#2
shawnhayes

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ARP are the best.

 

Depends on whether or not you're doing front and rear.

 

STRONGLY recommend you do the descartesfool pitch and length.  The ones that are similar to OEM are very long, and I've had several of them gall.

 

Shawn

 



#3
thehelix112

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I have nismo studs I'll be installing soon as I get off my arse.  They were pretty reasonable in price and biff_malibu got em for us both when he was in Japan.

 

Dave



#4
socalaviator

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ARP are the best.

Depends on whether or not you're doing front and rear.

STRONGLY recommend you do the descartesfool pitch and length. The ones that are similar to OEM are very long, and I've had several of them gall.

Shawn

Where would I find the recommended length and pitch?
Why do the OEM length ones gall?

Edited by socalaviator, 11 July 2018 - 02:55 PM.


#5
7racer

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not sure...I run the OEM  length and pitch and for me trying to run wider tires gives me a bit more breathing room.

 

I haven't had one gall but I did almost cross thread a wheel nut on it when I wasn't careful and didnt hand start it enough before hitting it with a gun.


In7anity!!


#6
socalaviator

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not sure...I run the OEM  length and pitch and for me trying to run wider tires gives me a bit more breathing room.
 
I haven't had one gall but I did almost cross thread a wheel nut on it when I wasn't careful and didnt hand start it enough before hitting it with a gun.


Can you elaborate more on your comment? I'm not sure I understand the relationship between the studs and wider tires?

#7
7racer

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Can you elaborate more on your comment? I'm not sure I understand the relationship between the studs and wider tires?

 

for me to run square I need a spacer in the back so you have less "length" of stud to tighten the wheel up with.  With the longer studs, I can easily run square with the space in back and flush wheels with the wheel arches.

 

if you add a spacer (depending on your wheel width) you have less threads to tighten the wheel down


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In7anity!!


#8
elf_cruiser

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Roughly 4-5 hrs of labor I would guess for all 4. I’ve had to replace a few of them after cross-threadung and seizing the nut. I got it down to a 15 min job on the rear, and 30 mins front.
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#9
descartesfool

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Where would I find the recommended length and pitch?
Why do the OEM length ones gall?

 

The OEM pitch ones which are a fine thread 1.25 mm pitch are more likely to gall than coarse pitch ones which are 1.5 mm pitch. Here are the ones from ARP that I used. You have to get new wheel nuts to match, and I have been using Muteki SR48 forged steel open end nuts and have not had one gall or fail yet.

 

http://www.gtrherita...t-diy/?p=131497


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#10
Aequitas & Veritas

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I have the longer ones on mine, had the shop that was pulling my trans install them for me for $75. 

 

I use Otis Inc. LA (made in Germany/US) for my lugs $25 works excellent on track and on street with OEM and APR studs. (I have black as they did not have silver when I ordered and I was only charged the silver price)

 

http://otisincla.com...nd-25mm-length/ (the 12mmx1.25)


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#11
shawnhayes

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Where would I find the recommended length and pitch?
Why do the OEM length ones gall?

 

descartesfool settled in on this one...

 

Longer studs are needed for spacers or with wheels with thick mounting plates.

 

But on the pitch, I used the OEM type pitch ones, and have now had several gall.  The OEM pitch is great for street wheels, but on the track with repeated cycling, with the kind of mounts we use (acorn taper nuts) the fine pitch is much more likely to do this.

 

Strongly recommend you go with his recommendation.

 

Let me say that again....

 

EVERY time descartesfool has had something he has done on his track car that I did something very different, HE turned out to be right later.  I don't know if it's the engineering background or the fact that he's old enough to be my dad, but on the transmission cooler he was right, on the oil cooler he was right, and on the thread pitch for track wheels he was right.

 

So, go with the coarser pitch.

 

Shawn


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#12
descartesfool

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Haha, that's real funny there Shawn.

 

Here is a response I got from ARP when I asked them about Shawn's galling stud issue on his ARP fine pitch studs. I had multiple galling issues on the OEM fine pitch studs before I went with the coarser pitch ARP ones. No galling since and using forged steel nuts. As he says below, you need a great set of nuts!

 

I always use a 1/2" small Makita battery impact with an 80 ft-lb torque stick to put the nuts on, and finish up with a torque wrench at 95 ft-lbs. No squished nuts yet.

 

"

Claude,

 

Here is one of the issues we come across with other customers.  With the cone shaped seat the cone on the nuts tends to collapse, gets tight, grabs the threads on the stud and you can end up with the damage you have. 

 

Impact wrenches speed the nut nose collapse and even repeated hand torquing can collapse the nose depending upon nut quality.  Lots of variables here too, material, material hardness, and thread class.

 

Ship me a new nut and a new stud if you have a spare and well check it out.

 

Best regards,

 

Alan Nichols

Sales & Technical

 

Automotive Racing Products

"


Edited by descartesfool, 12 July 2018 - 11:22 AM.

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#13
shawnhayes

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Haha, that's real funny there Shawn.

 

 

I think we all should start calling you "GT-R dad"

 

Shawn


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#14
socalaviator

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Haha, that's real funny there Shawn.
 
Here is a response I got from ARP when I asked them about Shawn's galling stud issue on his ARP fine pitch studs. I had multiple galling issues on the OEM fine pitch studs before I went with the coarser pitch ARP ones. No galling since and using forged steel nuts. As he says below, you need a great set of nuts!
 
I always use a 1/2" small Makita battery impact with an 80 ft-lb torque stick to put the nuts on, and finish up with a torque wrench at 95 ft-lbs. No squished nuts yet.
 
"
Claude,
 
Here is one of the issues we come across with other customers.  With the cone shaped seat the cone on the nuts tends to collapse, gets tight, grabs the threads on the stud and you can end up with the damage you have. 
 
Impact wrenches speed the nut nose collapse and even repeated hand torquing can collapse the nose depending upon nut quality.  Lots of variables here too, material, material hardness, and thread class.
 
Ship me a new nut and a new stud if you have a spare and well check it out.
 
Best regards,
 
Alan Nichols
Sales & Technical
 
Automotive Racing Products
"


Thanks to all the Gentlemen who replied and thank you Descartes for all the info you provided. Much appreciated.

#15
franzcars

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I know this is the handling section, but when are upgraded studs recommended for high horsepower cars on the street? We're making 1300whp on stock studs and I always worry that they're going to break. Mostly rolls and eventually digs


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#16
socalaviator

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I know this is the handling section, but when are upgraded studs recommended for high horsepower cars on the street? We're making 1300whp on stock studs and I always worry that they're going to break. Mostly rolls and eventually digs


This is exactly why I want to upgrade mine. I make 1100hp AND I change wheels somewhat frequently.




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