Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!

ARP Extended Wheel Studs questions
#1
Posted 11 July 2018 - 12:30 PM

How much longer are the ARP extended studs vs OEM length?
Typically how many hours of labor would be realistic to remove OEM studs and replace with ARP studs?
Is ARP the best brand to choose from?
#2
Posted 11 July 2018 - 02:19 PM

ARP are the best.
Depends on whether or not you're doing front and rear.
STRONGLY recommend you do the descartesfool pitch and length. The ones that are similar to OEM are very long, and I've had several of them gall.
Shawn
#3
Posted 11 July 2018 - 02:20 PM

I have nismo studs I'll be installing soon as I get off my arse. They were pretty reasonable in price and biff_malibu got em for us both when he was in Japan.
Dave
#4
Posted 11 July 2018 - 02:54 PM

Where would I find the recommended length and pitch?ARP are the best.
Depends on whether or not you're doing front and rear.
STRONGLY recommend you do the descartesfool pitch and length. The ones that are similar to OEM are very long, and I've had several of them gall.
Shawn
Why do the OEM length ones gall?
Edited by socalaviator, 11 July 2018 - 02:55 PM.
#5
Posted 11 July 2018 - 04:21 PM

not sure...I run the OEM length and pitch and for me trying to run wider tires gives me a bit more breathing room.
I haven't had one gall but I did almost cross thread a wheel nut on it when I wasn't careful and didnt hand start it enough before hitting it with a gun.
In7anity!!
#6
Posted 11 July 2018 - 06:04 PM

not sure...I run the OEM length and pitch and for me trying to run wider tires gives me a bit more breathing room.
I haven't had one gall but I did almost cross thread a wheel nut on it when I wasn't careful and didnt hand start it enough before hitting it with a gun.
Can you elaborate more on your comment? I'm not sure I understand the relationship between the studs and wider tires?
#7
Posted 11 July 2018 - 06:33 PM

Can you elaborate more on your comment? I'm not sure I understand the relationship between the studs and wider tires?
for me to run square I need a spacer in the back so you have less "length" of stud to tighten the wheel up with. With the longer studs, I can easily run square with the space in back and flush wheels with the wheel arches.
if you add a spacer (depending on your wheel width) you have less threads to tighten the wheel down
- elf_cruiser and socalaviator like this
In7anity!!
#8
Posted 11 July 2018 - 06:37 PM

- 7racer likes this
2010 GT-R - Matte Gray, AP/Carbotech, BSE trans cooler, BSE tune on ECUTek, H&R sways, AMSOIL, NASA-AZ TT2 and occasional DD
1976 FJ-40 Rock Buggy - tube chassis, LQ4, 700R4, NP205, Rockwells, F&R hydraulic steering, Fox, Ballistic, lots of 4130, 7068, and AR400
2001 Ford Excursion - V10, DD and occasional tow rig
facebook.com/DangerousEnterprises
Do want someday - Radical, 599 GTB w/FHP, 430 Scud, Superlite Coupe, FF Type 65 Coupe
#9
Posted 11 July 2018 - 07:33 PM

Where would I find the recommended length and pitch?
Why do the OEM length ones gall?
The OEM pitch ones which are a fine thread 1.25 mm pitch are more likely to gall than coarse pitch ones which are 1.5 mm pitch. Here are the ones from ARP that I used. You have to get new wheel nuts to match, and I have been using Muteki SR48 forged steel open end nuts and have not had one gall or fail yet.
http://www.gtrherita...t-diy/?p=131497
- 7racer and socalaviator like this
#10
Posted 12 July 2018 - 07:03 AM

I have the longer ones on mine, had the shop that was pulling my trans install them for me for $75.
I use Otis Inc. LA (made in Germany/US) for my lugs $25 works excellent on track and on street with OEM and APR studs. (I have black as they did not have silver when I ordered and I was only charged the silver price)
http://otisincla.com...nd-25mm-length/ (the 12mmx1.25)
IG - NoCrustGTR
#11
Posted 12 July 2018 - 08:49 AM

POPULAR
Where would I find the recommended length and pitch?
Why do the OEM length ones gall?
descartesfool settled in on this one...
Longer studs are needed for spacers or with wheels with thick mounting plates.
But on the pitch, I used the OEM type pitch ones, and have now had several gall. The OEM pitch is great for street wheels, but on the track with repeated cycling, with the kind of mounts we use (acorn taper nuts) the fine pitch is much more likely to do this.
Strongly recommend you go with his recommendation.
Let me say that again....
EVERY time descartesfool has had something he has done on his track car that I did something very different, HE turned out to be right later. I don't know if it's the engineering background or the fact that he's old enough to be my dad, but on the transmission cooler he was right, on the oil cooler he was right, and on the thread pitch for track wheels he was right.
So, go with the coarser pitch.
Shawn
- 7racer, choerizo, descartesfool and 2 others like this
#12
Posted 12 July 2018 - 11:22 AM

Haha, that's real funny there Shawn.
Here is a response I got from ARP when I asked them about Shawn's galling stud issue on his ARP fine pitch studs. I had multiple galling issues on the OEM fine pitch studs before I went with the coarser pitch ARP ones. No galling since and using forged steel nuts. As he says below, you need a great set of nuts!
I always use a 1/2" small Makita battery impact with an 80 ft-lb torque stick to put the nuts on, and finish up with a torque wrench at 95 ft-lbs. No squished nuts yet.
"
Claude,
Here is one of the issues we come across with other customers. With the cone shaped seat the cone on the nuts tends to collapse, gets tight, grabs the threads on the stud and you can end up with the damage you have.
Impact wrenches speed the nut nose collapse and even repeated hand torquing can collapse the nose depending upon nut quality. Lots of variables here too, material, material hardness, and thread class.
Ship me a new nut and a new stud if you have a spare and well check it out.
Best regards,
Alan Nichols
Sales & Technical
Automotive Racing Products
"
Edited by descartesfool, 12 July 2018 - 11:22 AM.
- 7racer, elf_cruiser and socalaviator like this
#13
Posted 12 July 2018 - 11:40 AM

Haha, that's real funny there Shawn.
I think we all should start calling you "GT-R dad"
Shawn
- 7racer likes this
#14
Posted 13 July 2018 - 01:34 AM

Haha, that's real funny there Shawn.
Here is a response I got from ARP when I asked them about Shawn's galling stud issue on his ARP fine pitch studs. I had multiple galling issues on the OEM fine pitch studs before I went with the coarser pitch ARP ones. No galling since and using forged steel nuts. As he says below, you need a great set of nuts!
I always use a 1/2" small Makita battery impact with an 80 ft-lb torque stick to put the nuts on, and finish up with a torque wrench at 95 ft-lbs. No squished nuts yet.
"
Claude,
Here is one of the issues we come across with other customers. With the cone shaped seat the cone on the nuts tends to collapse, gets tight, grabs the threads on the stud and you can end up with the damage you have.
Impact wrenches speed the nut nose collapse and even repeated hand torquing can collapse the nose depending upon nut quality. Lots of variables here too, material, material hardness, and thread class.
Ship me a new nut and a new stud if you have a spare and well check it out.
Best regards,
Alan Nichols
Sales & Technical
Automotive Racing Products
"
Thanks to all the Gentlemen who replied and thank you Descartes for all the info you provided. Much appreciated.
#15
Posted 13 July 2018 - 07:22 AM

I know this is the handling section, but when are upgraded studs recommended for high horsepower cars on the street? We're making 1300whp on stock studs and I always worry that they're going to break. Mostly rolls and eventually digs
New GTR
2009 SS Jack's Built ETS 3582R. From Motown to The Lou, and we're proud
#16
Posted 18 July 2018 - 08:33 AM

I know this is the handling section, but when are upgraded studs recommended for high horsepower cars on the street? We're making 1300whp on stock studs and I always worry that they're going to break. Mostly rolls and eventually digs
This is exactly why I want to upgrade mine. I make 1100hp AND I change wheels somewhat frequently.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users