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Coolant temps

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34 replies to this topic

#1
Dsm_alpha

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Quick question, if I have the car off and it's above 203deg should the fans kick on when I put key to on position without starting the car?

Edited by Dsm_alpha, 13 August 2017 - 03:28 PM.


#2
elf_cruiser

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If a tree falls and no one is around...???

I have no idea - sorry I can't be more helpful

2010 GT-R - Matte Gray, AP/Carbotech, BSE trans cooler, BSE tune on ECUTek, H&R sways, AMSOIL, NASA-AZ TT2 and occasional DD
1976 FJ-40 Rock Buggy - tube chassis, LQ4, 700R4, NP205, Rockwells, F&R hydraulic steering, Fox, Ballistic, lots of 4130, 7068, and AR400

2001 Ford Excursion - V10, DD and occasional tow rig

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Do want someday - Radical, 599 GTB w/FHP, 430 Scud, Superlite Coupe, FF Type 65 Coupe


#3
Dsm_alpha

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What have folks done to reduce coolant temps. I am going to go from 50/50 to 70/30 but anything else easy I can do before moving to another radiator?

#4
Dsm_alpha

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Anyone?

#5
thehelix112

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I haven't done anything.  I've hit high temps on track in the summer.  My solution was to not go to the track in summer. :)

 

Dave


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#6
destroid

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70:30, Redline water wetter, NISMO 180kPa radiator cap, NISMO/SpecV high cap overflow tank, fill to Nismo line on tank.

So far so good for 30 mins at Watkins Glen 2:18 laps in 85 deg weather. (DBA so more of the transmission heat is dumped into the coolant)

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#7
Dsm_alpha

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70:30, Redline water wetter, NISMO 180kPa radiator cap, NISMO/SpecV high cap overflow tank, fill to Nismo line on tank.

So far so good for 30 mins at Watkins Glen 2:18 laps in 85 deg weather. (DBA so more of the transmission heat is dumped into the coolant)

http://www.gtrherita...ervoir/?p=69653


Thanks!

#8
destroid

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The stock system with those factory upgrades is pretty good at stock power.

Folks in warmer states like TX and running more power probably need uprated radiators for the coolant and oil. And a transmission cooler especially with the CBA cars that have the undersized coolant piping to the trans heat exchanger.
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#9
forty-two

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What have folks done to reduce coolant temps. I am going to go from 50/50 to 70/30 but anything else easy I can do before moving to another radiator?

 

Though I no longer do, I used to track my CBA (almost FBO, slicks, brakes) all through the central Texas summer.

 

Coolant temps were never a problem. First were the trans temps - HKS cooler fixed that. Then the engine oil temps - BL upgraded oil radiator helped with that.

 

Back on topic - early on I had custom deflectors made for the front brakes (much like the CF ones now offered by various vendors). These dropped my on track coolant temps by ~5F. I can only surmise that the deflectors created a lower pressure zone in the wheel well just near the axle pass through cut out, which resulted in better air flow out of the engine compartment though those cutouts...but, IDK.


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#10
Dsm_alpha

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Yup I have the greddy DCT cooler and no oil temp issues. I do have the DI massive FMIC though so I think it is blocking a lot of flow to the radiator.

Going to try the 70/30 coolant mix and then maybe most spray the front of the radiator with water if I need to.
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#11
JasperGTR

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This reminds me that I never upgraded my trans cooler.  I just stopped tracking in Summer.  Something I probably should have had done while my car was in pieces somewhere else (still trying to get it running well again - -small things...).



#12
shawnhayes

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 NISMO 180kPa radiator cap, NISMO/SpecV high cap overflow tank, fill to Nismo line on tank.

 

 

These are the most important upgrades after upgraded trans cooling.

 

Upgraded AMS oil cooler is the next most important step I think.

 

But the best I think would be the AMS integrated solution.  I haven't done it, but I think it's the best.

 

Shawn


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#13
descartesfool

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These are the most important upgrades after upgraded trans cooling.

 

Upgraded AMS oil cooler is the next most important step I think.

 

But the best I think would be the AMS integrated solution.  I haven't done it, but I think it's the best.

 

Shawn

 

I just came back from the Glen, where I ran some wicked fast laps, a couple of them in the 2:09's and many in the low 2:10's. Weather was about 80 degrees, and I was pushing the car hard as I could with the tires feeling like they were overloaded on some corners.

 

When I cam in the pits and parked in the paddock garage in the afternoon, a bunch of coolant poured out from the front undertray, and I might have actually slid on my own anti-freeze on my last braking into turn 8 when there was a black flag closing the session off because a Porsche had gone off track. Not sure if I slid a bit in my own anti-freeze of if it was in someone else's fluid which had caused the Porsche to go off track.

 

P1120136.JPG

 

P1120137.JPG

 

P1120138.JPG

 

 

The fluid came out of the overflow tank drain tube, and sprayed onto the intake pipe on the driver's side, as shown in the pictures, and eventually accumulated on the undertray. Green color spray on the intake tube was much more visible when I first opened the hood at the Glen. Wasn't a ton of fluid loss, about a 1/2 litre bottle of water, but a guy walking by my car in the paddock garage certainly noticed the large puddle on the floor. I have the EOM radiator cap and tank, which is 137 kPa which is 19.7 psi, and as I see above, the Nismo one is 180 kPa, which is 26 psi, so much less likely to allow th cap to open and let fluid out the overflow tube. This overflow has never happened to me in 10 years with my CBA and its tranny and secondary oil cooler. Plus I never noticed any overheating on track at my open lapping Glen event.

 

P1120140.JPG


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#14
elf_cruiser

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Thanks for the info Descartes. If that cap is as old as your car then it's time for a new one, it's probably only holding a few psi. May as well go with the Nismo...

2010 GT-R - Matte Gray, AP/Carbotech, BSE trans cooler, BSE tune on ECUTek, H&R sways, AMSOIL, NASA-AZ TT2 and occasional DD
1976 FJ-40 Rock Buggy - tube chassis, LQ4, 700R4, NP205, Rockwells, F&R hydraulic steering, Fox, Ballistic, lots of 4130, 7068, and AR400

2001 Ford Excursion - V10, DD and occasional tow rig

facebook.com/DangerousEnterprises

Do want someday - Radical, 599 GTB w/FHP, 430 Scud, Superlite Coupe, FF Type 65 Coupe


#15
descartesfool

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Thanks for the info Descartes. If that cap is as old as your car then it's time for a new one, it's probably only holding a few psi. May as well go with the Nismo...

 

The cap is old for sure, been fully pressurized many a time.

 

Pat numbers for the Nismo cap and tank, and how does one get them?



#16
7racer

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The cap is old for sure, been fully pressurized many a time.

 

Pat numbers for the Nismo cap and tank, and how does one get them?

 

I have to look where I got mine. It might have been Fredbean but they are defunct.  I think speedforsale has it on their site....let me look


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#17
shawnhayes

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The cap is old for sure, been fully pressurized many a time.

Pat numbers for the Nismo cap and tank, and how does one get them?


NickTO did the first write up on this eons ago. It was the specV tank and cap then.

I think Riley at Lynchburg Nissan in Lynchburg Va may still have some. Any way I can help?

Shawn

#18
descartesfool

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I suppose the first thing to do is get someone to test my OEM radiator cap and see if it has a weakened spring and opening before its rated 137 kPA or at whatever range it is supposed to open at, as that will tell me if I am having a simple part failure or a system failure, since this is the first time in 10 years coolant has leaked out enough that I've noticed it.

 

The other dumb thing is that the overflow that came out all collected on top of the front undertray, which acted like a storage system. That is not good, and I figure the overflow should dump directly to the ground with a longer hose routed to behind the driver's side front tire, so there is no chance of a pile of coolant from the undertray dumping out under braking in front of the driver's side front tire. I have been running a 30/70 mix antifreeze/water for as long as I can remember to allow for the fluid's increased cooling capacity.

 

With the larger tank and higher 180 kPA pressure cap, are all coolant overflow problems gone?



#19
shawnhayes

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I suppose the first thing to do is get someone to test my OEM radiator cap and see if it has a weakened spring and opening before its rated 137 kPA or at whatever range it is supposed to open at, as that will tell me if I am having a simple part failure or a system failure, since this is the first time in 10 years coolant has leaked out enough that I've noticed it.

 

The other dumb thing is that the overflow that came out all collected on top of the front undertray, which acted like a storage system. That is not good, and I figure the overflow should dump directly to the ground with a longer hose routed to behind the driver's side front tire, so there is no chance of a pile of coolant from the undertray dumping out under braking in front of the driver's side front tire. I have been running a 30/70 mix antifreeze/water for as long as I can remember to allow for the fluid's increased cooling capacity.

 

With the larger tank and higher 180 kPA pressure cap, are all coolant overflow problems gone?

 

Nissan did it on the CBA spec V because the bigger turbos overflowed the coolant on track.  I did it out of principle and have never had overflow at all.  And I agree with you where the overflow should go, and big bunch in the undertray is a poor design.

 

Shawn



#20
destroid

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Boulder Nissan has the parts:

Lookup Code: 21510
TANK ASSY-RADIATOR RESERVOIR
Part Number: 21710JF10A
GRADE: NISMO or NISMOPKG

Lookup Code: 21430
CAP ASSY-RADIATOR 180kPa Nismo
Part Number: 2143089S0A
GRADE: NISMO or NISMOPKG

Lookup Code: 21515
HOSE-RESERVOIR TANK
Part Number: 21742JF10B
GRADE: NISMO or NISMOPKG
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