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And yet ONE more Wheel Stud Replacement DIY

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30 replies to this topic

#21
shawnhayes

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Shawn. You didn't hurt your new Volks did you???


Not here yet - they are due to arrive toward the end of this month. I like to trial new equipment (spacers and extended stud) on old equipment for just such reasons. This little incident hogged out some of the hub area of one of the OEM wheels I have been on for six years.

Not that I care, I think I have a bent wheel. My front hub replacement did not fix my 120mph vibration. I think six years of track duty has damaged one of my wheels and it is out of true.

Could just be out of balance, but it is time that I retired the original wheels from track duty. I can't even calculate the number of hours of track duty on those wheels. I have 37,000 miles, a whole LOT of them track.

Shawn
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#22
shawnhayes

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Yep, now I get it. Basically it's an incremental job - the longer the stud the more stuff you have to remove.


Hmmm. That seems to be true whether you're talking about cars, and plenty of other things.

:)

Shawn
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#23
choerizo

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Pressing out wheel studs:

 

attachicon.gifP1010413.JPG

 

 

Haha did you just do this recently too or have you had these for a while?



#24
shawnhayes

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6da39ac6af284463cf23fc56b4249a02.jpg

Stupid ARP studs are just as prone to galling when being manipulated hot after a hard track session.

Burnt up a set of rear pads on the carbons, and was greeted with a near impossible to remove rear lugnut when trying to remove it hot. Dammit.

I had forgotten what a dirty pain in the butt this job is to do.

The long ARP’s require removement of the parking brake and cable to replace them on the rear.

But now I have 2/5 new studs on the left rear wheel yay!

Shawn

#25
forty-two

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6da39ac6af284463cf23fc56b4249a02.jpg

Stupid ARP studs are just as prone to galling when being manipulated hot after a hard track session.

Burnt up a set of rear pads on the carbons, and was greeted with a near impossible to remove rear lugnut when trying to remove it hot. Dammit.

I had forgotten what a dirty pain in the butt this job is to do.

The long ARP’s require removement of the parking brake and cable to replace them on the rear.

But now I have 2/5 new studs on the left rear wheel yay!

Shawn

 

Mine definitely don't look like that! Still on steel rotors, though.


ATX GTROC on Facebook - link

14492399_1137348429689454_63336591853219


#26
shawnhayes

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Mine definitely don't look like that! Still on steel rotors, though.

 

So far, it was just this ONE.  The carbons probably contributed to high heat, and I know better than to try to remove the nuts hot.  I've had this happen to me TWICE at the track and both times it was trying to remove warm nuts between sessions to do/check brakes.

 

Shawn


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#27
choerizo

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Warm nuts... mmm


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#28
shawnhayes

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Son of a bitch. I was afraid this happened on another wheel. Had a full set of replacement aluminum lugnuts....
f35944b2b2397312c6ef2d9c1f9a809a.jpg

Steel is harder than aluminum, so replacing with these will sacrifice the nuts and not the stud.

I can’t upload video.

But another nut jammed up on another stud, and I couldn’t get it to come off.

So I tried this:

b0550e7ef333c78308c33febabfac431.jpg

Which apparently is a really shitty idea. Because I pushed the stud out of the hub (I hope, or worse, stripped the hub)

So now I’m considering this:
Www.lugripper.com

Vs. using a cutoff tool to split the nut to remove it

Vs. trying to get the cutoff wheel behind the wheel mating surface to cut the lug.

I hate this crap.

Shawn
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#29
elf_cruiser

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Damn dude! You and lug nuts are like me and brake bleeders haha!

2010 GT-R - Matte Gray, AP/Carbotech, BSE trans cooler, BSE tune on ECUTek, H&R sways, AMSOIL, NASA-AZ TT2 and occasional DD
1976 FJ-40 Rock Buggy - tube chassis, LQ4, 700R4, NP205, Rockwells, F&R hydraulic steering, Fox, Ballistic, lots of 4130, 7068, and AR400

2001 Ford Excursion - V10, DD and occasional tow rig

facebook.com/DangerousEnterprises

Do want someday - Radical, 599 GTB w/FHP, 430 Scud, Superlite Coupe, FF Type 65 Coupe


#30
shawnhayes

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Damn dude! You and lug nuts are like me and brake bleeders haha!

 

Well, this is the first time I've had this on the GT-R.  My last one was an EVO IX MR with a similarly buggered lugnut, but it was just one.

 

This time, two things happened:

1. I let a dealership install the tires - despite me standing there watching, I didn't think much of them snugging the nuts up first with an impact wrench, but they torqued with a torque wrench

 

2. After rear pads went hinkey at my last track event, I took off the lugnuts hot.  My plan was to put them on only cold, but I removed while they were still hot.  This was clearly a serious error.  The threads nearest the wheel were obviously damaged, either by the dealership or me detorquing them hot, and when they went back on they damaged the stud on the way down.  Now one is stuck on the right rear, and now the stud is loose too and I can't get the nut off.

 

I think my best bet is going to be to cut a notch with a cut off tool down both sides cutting the nut in two toward the extended stud, and then hope I can drive a chisel down on the nut splitting it in two around the stud.

 

My other two hopes would be to be able to cut the stud after I got the wheel loose, but I'd have to get the cut off tool between the wheel and brake rotor.  Not an easy task.

 

Last would be drilling a drill into the stud/nut to drill the end of the stud out of the nut.

 

Hopefully, solution #1 will work.  But that will have to wait for another day.  I'm too busy right now.

 

Shawn



#31
elf_cruiser

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How can you possibly cut into the lug nut while the wheel is still mounted?

What about removing the spindle nut and the hub bolts, and then removing all the brake hat hardware? Then you could pull out the hub and rotor hat with the wheel still mounted, right? The rotor ring and caliper would stay in place. Or is there eBrake stuff in the way? I can’t remember - the only time I took all that apart I ditched the ebrake stuff.

2010 GT-R - Matte Gray, AP/Carbotech, BSE trans cooler, BSE tune on ECUTek, H&R sways, AMSOIL, NASA-AZ TT2 and occasional DD
1976 FJ-40 Rock Buggy - tube chassis, LQ4, 700R4, NP205, Rockwells, F&R hydraulic steering, Fox, Ballistic, lots of 4130, 7068, and AR400

2001 Ford Excursion - V10, DD and occasional tow rig

facebook.com/DangerousEnterprises

Do want someday - Radical, 599 GTB w/FHP, 430 Scud, Superlite Coupe, FF Type 65 Coupe





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