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And yet ONE more Wheel Stud Replacement DIY

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#1
shawnhayes

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Okay, there are LOTS of resources out here.

 

But, in preparing for new track wheels for me, I needed rear 20mm spacers and extended wheel studs to match.

 

Forged Performance sold me the spacers and studs, it's an Eibach spacer (very high quality, BTW).

 

 

 

13471l.jpg

 

For installing the studs, I had already installed rear studs in those hubs before.  That being said, EXTENDED studs was going to be something else entirely.

 

I read up on the following threads...

 

http://www.gtrherita...s/?fromsearch=1

 

http://www.gtrherita...ud-replacement/

 

http://www.gtrherita...ps-all-around/ 

 

And I admit, I was a little intimidated.  I had just replaced the front wheel hubs, and I did NOT look forward to pulling the rear hubs.  I forged ahead, and hoped.  I got stuck HERE:

 

studs03.jpg

 

You see those hub bolts?  No no no, not the big ones at the BOTTOM of the picture, the little ones AROUND THE DRIVESHAFT?  Yeah, those.

 

Those are virtually IMPOSSIBLE to remove without getting the wheel nut loose, and pushing the axle in SIGNIFICANTLY to be able to get to the heads.  The driveaxle CV joint somes ridiculously close to the edge of the bolt.  There HAS to be an easier way..

 

Fortunately, there is....

 

14545951314_79a06afd4e.jpg

 

Detailed in "another wheel stud....."  Thanks god7illa.

 

But, after removing that stupid parking brake thing on one side, and even THAT being a pain in the ass, I fiddled around a little bit.

 

Imagine my surprise when I discovered that THIS SPACE:

 

post-1475-0-28617700-1397642650.jpg

 

 

If you remove the parking brake mechanism...

 

This area is big enough to install even 20mm extended wheel studs with NO hub removal, and NO removal of the parking brake!!!

 

14360895748_bd3c6738d4.jpg

 

I removed the parking brake cable for the left rear.

 

For the right rear, all I did was remove the drum brake mechanism, and the studs slipped in from above because you can start inserting them at a slight angle from the pocket where the adjuster is, and all is well!!

 

Thank you to:

icarus

god7illa

descartesfool

Forged Performance

 

I couldn't have done ANY of it without all of you.

 

By the way, icarus, you are a magician.  Removing those rear wheel hubs without taking apart half the damn suspension is a big feat.  If you read the service manual, it's a long day.  I don't know how you did it, I gave up and looked for shortcuts.  Thank God I found them.

 

Shawn

 


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#2
choerizo

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Wow today must be stud Thursday. I just wrapped up my ARP install, about to start my own thread (or append to Karl's) and not clutter yours.  Those studs must be shorter than the ARP ones because I had to remove the rear parking brake in order to get the stud to slip in. 


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#3
shawnhayes

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Wow today must be stud Thursday. I just wrapped up my ARP install, about to start my own thread (or append to Karl's) and not clutter yours. Those studs must be shorter than the ARP ones because I had to remove the rear parking brake in order to get the stud to slip in.


It was close. These are exactly 20 mm longer than stock and the heads will not fit through the parking brake hole. The head is too big, but Karl detailed that with the stud similar to OEM pitch. I discovered while putting them into the parking brake hole on the left rear that there was A LOT of room to get them into the hub once the drum brake was removed.

If I had to, I would have purchased ARP's. But these came with my spacers - and considering they are from Eibach, I suspect of very high quality.

I do not know how much longer the ARP's are than stock. Do you think they are much more than 20mm longer?

Shawn

#4
choerizo

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Just measured. The ARP studs I'm using are 36mm longer than OEM.



#5
icarus

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Ive measured too, they're only 27mm longer threads. So to be safe I only run 25mm spacers on the rear.
2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#6
forty-two

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Y'all are running rear spacers on track?

 

I tried one session with & one session without on my track wheels/tires, & "felt" like I had slightly more understeer - which seems reasonable due to a tricycle effect. So, I haven't run them on track since. I've been meaning to compare front & rear track widths of my track wheel/tire setup vs stock vs Nismo, but haven't done it yet.


ATX GTROC on Facebook - link

14492399_1137348429689454_63336591853219


#7
7racer

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Y'all are running rear spacers on track?

 

I tried one session with & one session without on my track wheels/tires, & "felt" like I had slightly more understeer - which seems reasonable due to a tricycle effect. So, I haven't run them on track since. I've been meaning to compare front & rear track widths of my track wheel/tire setup vs stock vs Nismo, but haven't done it yet.

 

I do!  I noticed that it got rid of some off mine, which kinda makes sense as I have wider fronts now.  Icarus did the math in his head as I was talking to him about it and said that I think I am about even now....


In7anity!!


#8
icarus

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You guys just don't know how insane I really am.   :-)

 

From left to right, measurements are THREAD length, so that extra nub on the end of the ARP's don't count.

 

ARP extended stud = 67mm

H&R 15mm spacer stud = 57mm

H&R 10mm spacer stud = 52mm

OEM front stud = 43mm

OEM rear stud = 40mm

 

studs

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2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#9
forty-two

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Rumor is that those that choose the ARP are making up for shortcomings in other areas, haha!

 

You guys just don't know how insane I really am.   :-)

 

From left to right, measurements are THREAD length, so that extra nub on the end of the ARP's don't count.

 

ARP extended stud = 67mm

H&R 15mm spacer stud = 57mm

H&R 10mm spacer stud = 52mm

OEM front stud = 43mm

OEM rear stud = 40mm

 


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ATX GTROC on Facebook - link

14492399_1137348429689454_63336591853219


#10
icarus

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your stud can never be too long.
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2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#11
shawnhayes

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Y'all are running rear spacers on track?

 

I tried one session with & one session without on my track wheels/tires, & "felt" like I had slightly more understeer - which seems reasonable due to a tricycle effect. So, I haven't run them on track since. I've been meaning to compare front & rear track widths of my track wheel/tire setup vs stock vs Nismo, but haven't done it yet.

 

 

I do!  I noticed that it got rid of some off mine, which kinda makes sense as I have wider fronts now.  Icarus did the math in his head as I was talking to him about it and said that I think I am about even now....

 

The answer fourty two is I WILL.  When my Volk TE37 Ultra Track Editions come in, I will be running the SAME wheel front and back.  To make the track similar to stock, I need to space out the rears.

 

Also, for this weekend, I will be at the WannaGoFast event in Hot Springs, and straight line stability is increased with a slight increase in rear track.

 

It DOES, as you point out, add grip in the rear, which can move the balance toward understeer.  I like my car very neutral, and with my Forged Performance antisways, and a square tire setup (but stock rims), my balance is a little toward oversteer.  Not much, just A LITTLE.  Maybe this will move it a little more toward neutral.  So far, so good.  On wet pavement, I haven't been able to swing the rear out at street legal speeds, so we'll see.

 

Shawn


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#12
shawnhayes

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your stud can never be too long.

 

IMGP0248.jpg

 

Actually, yes they can.

 

When they threaten to take off pedestrians knees, they are too long.

 

Shawn



#13
shawnhayes

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It has been mentioned a time or two in some of the other threads, but let me carefully reiterate....

 

The studs that you put in and PULL THROUGH using the studs threads WILL loosen.

 

My recommendation is to press them in IF YOU CAN.

 

If you cannot, make sure you bring your torque wrench out for your drives over the next several weeks.

 

My first outing out - the wheel loosened enough to vibrate within five miles.  It galled the wheel and spacer, and two of the studs have the knurling so galled as to require replacement.  They turn easily in the hub when trying to remove the wheel.

 

It was astonishing that they loosened up AGAIN over the following week, even after a 100 mile trip.  I couldn't believe it.

 

Follow the advice above carefully.  Your results may vary, but have your wrench ready and I'd suggest stopping within one mile of taking the car out for the first time, and retorquing immediately.

 

Shawn



#14
HiBoost

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Thanks for writing this up Shawn, we can never have too many resources!

One question though. I was left confused by the section below. I'm presuming some part of that is a typo since it seems to contradict itself (re: removing the parking brake)

If you remove the parking brake mechanism...
 
This area is big enough to install even 20mm extended wheel studs with NO hub removal, and NO removal of the parking brake!!!


-Jeff

#15
icarus

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Jotech did my ARP replacements originally. They used a press and spot welded each as an extra measure to prevent them from loosening. Sounds like it is worthwhile to go through that trouble. I pull the wheels on and off A LOT. Probably hundreds of times over the years. So the studs take a lot of on/off/torque/loosen cycles...
2014 NISSAN GT-R
Racing Brake - HKS - GotBoost Performance - AMS

#16
descartesfool

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Pressing out wheel studs:

 

P1010413.JPG

 

P1010416.JPG

 

ARP 12x1.5 mm studs vs OEM length Dorman 12x1.5 mm studs ( I didn't feel I needed the "extra long" 12x1.25 mm studs) and now all my cars have the same stud pitch.

 

P1010418.JPG

 

and pressing in the ARP ones.

 

P1010420.JPG

 

P1010421.JPG

 

All done (minus cotter pin).

 

P1010433.JPG

 

Pressing out the rear ones using a genuine Honda ball-joint removal tool.

 

P1010445.JPG

 

Pulling in the rear studs

 

P1010448.JPG

 

all done in the rear

 

P1010449.JPG

 


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#17
shawnhayes

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One question though. I was left confused by the section below. I'm presuming some part of that is a typo since it seems to contradict itself (re: removing the parking brake)


I had a little trouble with the syntax - still do - help me out....

There are two parts of the parking brake - the shoes and adjusters, and then the mechanism at the bottom that has that big hole that one can use to "store" the studs while rotating the hub around to install extended studs.

Some studs (OEM, and if you are creative, maybe the H&R, or even the Eibach ones) can be "jiggled" around the adjuster at the top, and installed without removing ANYTHING.

As they get longer, then by removing the shoes and adjuster at the top (easy job) one can get some extra room to get the even longer studs in. That's what I call the "parking brake".

As you get even longer, either hub removal or removal of the parking brake cable holder and spreader is required (hub removal looks quite difficult - even descartesfool skipped THAT - having removed the parking cable holder that was also quite a challenge). The holder and cable hole is what I was referring to as the "mechanism". I guess I could have been more literal. Does that explain it?

Shawn

#18
shawnhayes

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Jotech did my ARP replacements originally. They used a press and spot welded each as an extra measure to prevent them from loosening. Sounds like it is worthwhile to go through that trouble. I pull the wheels on and off A LOT. Probably hundreds of times over the years. So the studs take a lot of on/off/torque/loosen cycles...


I wondered for years why they went to all that trouble.

I'd still rather be able to do this job at home, and not need a plasma cutter to get my studs out.

My wheels are on and off like underwear.

Never broke a stud so far, but I am on my second set of replacement studs in six years.

Shawn

#19
HiBoost

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I had a little trouble with the syntax - still do - help me out....

There are two parts of the parking brake - the shoes and adjusters, and then the mechanism at the bottom that has that big hole that one can use to "store" the studs while rotating the hub around to install extended studs.

Some studs (OEM, and if you are creative, maybe the H&R, or even the Eibach ones) can be "jiggled" around the adjuster at the top, and installed without removing ANYTHING.

As they get longer, then by removing the shoes and adjuster at the top (easy job) one can get some extra room to get the even longer studs in. That's what I call the "parking brake".

As you get even longer, either hub removal or removal of the parking brake cable holder and spreader is required (hub removal looks quite difficult - even descartesfool skipped THAT - having removed the parking cable holder that was also quite a challenge). The holder and cable hole is what I was referring to as the "mechanism". I guess I could have been more literal. Does that explain it?

Shawn

Yep, now I get it. Basically it's an incremental job - the longer the stud the more stuff you have to remove.
-Jeff

#20
7racer

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Shawn. You didn't hurt your new Volks did you???

In7anity!!





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