36 replies to this topic

[icarus]

Is the the 0.5" drop in front only your goal? Or are you also following TSM's or other recommendations?

Another ref point is, Eibach springs lower the front 0.8" and rear 0.5". Swift Spec R are about 1" all around.

[choerizo]

I am doing pieces of it in phases -- will still need to adjust camber settings and get sway bars but I like to test one component at a time to see how they affect handling/performance of the car. There is still a lot of work that needs to be done w/the driver mod. 

[choerizo]

Here's some updates on the rear sleeve install. Like many have said before, the majority of the time is spent removing interior pieces to gain access to the bolts that hold the strut in. They are under the rear deck where your speakers are and if you start to backtrace, you'll realize you need to remove pretty much everything in the back. I won't go into details on how to remove the interior as that has been done before, but if anyone needs help I can give pointers. Essentially, start with the seats, the seat back, the armrest/cupholder, the sub cover, the side panels, the top side panels, and then rear deck. Once you are done, you should have these pieces out.

 

 

The inside should look like this (note I have additional sound deadening so your interior may look slightly different).

 

 

 

Once you pull off the rear deck, you will see the suspension covered in sound deadening material. 

 

 

Carefully peel it off and you will see the same configuration as under the hood for the front (3x12mm bolts, 17mm in the center). You will also notice it is set much deeper inside the wheel well so my passthru tool would not work from inside the car.

 

 

Loosen the top 3 12mm bolts completely (don't worry it won't fall out). 

 

Now back under the car. Pull the wheel off and remove the 17mm bolt holding the bottom end of the shock in.

 

 

That's it. Now you can pull the shock assembly out. No other bolts need to be removed.

 

 

Completely disassemble.

 

 

Reassemble w/KW components as instructed.

 

 

Reattach back into vehicle.

 

Edited by choester, 16 March 2015 - 04:04 PM.

[thehelix112]

Awesome man. My wife is gunna have a heart attack if she ever seems that much of the car not attached to it.

Dave

Edited by thehelix112, 16 March 2015 - 01:45 PM.

[choerizo]

Install complete! Still need to fine tune the height, but it drives pretty good. Only went around the neighborhood so I didn't get a chance to give it a full test but the ride felt just a tad firmer than stock. Steering response does seem improved though.

 

[7racer]

NICE!

 

I've pulled off those rear plastic pieces also, if you do this as a DIY, you might want to buy some extra clips as a just in case.

 

Usually you can still push the plastics back but you might get left with some rattles.  

FWIW

[icarus]

TopSpeed OLOA car for comparison

 

[choerizo]

Funny enough it looks like they have higher ground clearance guessing from the larger diameter tires. I just bought a set of telescoping gauges to help with the adjustment.

[icarus]

I'm thinking that front tire clearance was dictating minimum ride height in front, and rear must follow suit.

Sure wish TSM would chime in...

[choerizo]

If they set all heights the same, is it not worth getting corner balanced?

[7racer]

If they set all heights the same, is it not worth getting corner balanced?

 

 

they can be all at the same height but corner balance way off.

[choerizo]

After riding around town some more, I have found the rears to be slightly more "bouncy" than stock CBA setup. This is most noticeable when adjusting between R & Comf settings (the change feels much more substantial than OEM). I wonder if this is due to the difference in spring rates? I would have figured the ride to be more harsh rather than compliant but will this equate to better handling. Hitting up COTA on Sunday so we will see how they perform and feel on a smooth track.

[shawnhayes]

Two suggestions:

 

As per this thread:

 

http://www.speedfors...nSpringsGTR.pdf

 

Removing the front shock is A LOT easier if the front axle nut is removed

 

And....

 

The upper control arm bolts do not have to be REMOVED, just loosened.  Loosening them allows up and down movement of the upper control arm, enough to get the shock out.

 

Shawn

[thehelix112]

Man, I'm finally to the point where I need to do the rears and this thread is giving me anxiety.   Any pointers on removing interior pieces would be much appreciated.

 

Also, has anyone done anything like cutting a hole in the top board so you don't have to do this everytime you wanna swap out springs etc?

 

Dave

[choerizo]

haha, i'm about to do this again... got some lightly used Track Ed. shocks on the shelf that will replace my leaky Bilsteins. The interior is not entirely difficult, just a hassle. Should be no problem for you. 

 

I have seen cutouts on the rear deck for those running adjustable rears. Good luck!

[thehelix112]

Good luck!   

[shawnhayes]

Man, I'm finally to the point where I need to do the rears and this thread is giving me anxiety.   Any pointers on removing interior pieces would be much appreciated.

 

Also, has anyone done anything like cutting a hole in the top board so you don't have to do this everytime you wanna swap out springs etc?

 

Dave

 

 

haha, i'm about to do this again... got some lightly used Track Ed. shocks on the shelf that will replace my leaky Bilsteins. The interior is not entirely difficult, just a hassle. Should be no problem for you. 

 

I have seen cutouts on the rear deck for those running adjustable rears. Good luck!

 

 

Good luck!   

 

Won't be too hard.  I think there are some interior removal guides around.

 

Shawn