Jump to content

Welcome to Nissan GT-R Heritage
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

Racing Brake Complete System - Long Term Test

- - - - - racing brake calipers track rotors track pads brake system brakes

  • Please log in to reply
116 replies to this topic

#101
shawnhayes

shawnhayes

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 4,641 posts
  • Joined 11-September 13

Running slicks and around 1:55.. Not that impressive really..

 

Not for a GT-R.  But for a straight Z28 with NASA rules?  Methinks that's probably not too bad for him.  But, the improvement is probably the most important quantity.  If you make Captain Slow 10 seconds faster, that's a good thing to do.

 

Shawn



#102
thehelix112

thehelix112

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 3,708 posts
  • Joined 14-June 13
  • LocationLos Angeles, CA

Please try to understand that the essence of the quoted experience is the "improvement" Russ can make, meaning the seconds that this RB set up + slick tire can help him shave off than track time.

I don't think anyone will disagree that 10 second out of a 2 minutes run is not a remarkable improvement am I right?


At face value, yes. But a stock z28 is probably capable of a 1:56 in stock form in the hands of a pro. Not to take away from Russ, we're all learning and that's a massive improvement!

But he may have dropped the same amount of time with no setup changed given more seat time. I went from 2:03 first time there to 1:57 with 0 setup changes, still on OEM rubber.

I think to evaluate setup changes properly you have to be running against the limits of the setup, and the change one thing at a time. Otherwise skill, experience and multiple variables confound any meaningful results.

Not for a GT-R. But for a straight Z28 with NASA rules? Methinks that's probably not too bad for him. But, the improvement is probably the most important quantity. If you make Captain Slow 10 seconds faster, that's a good thing to do.

Shawn

As another data point one of those z28 in stock trim is 2 seconds quicker around big willow than my car, same driver. http://fastestlaps.c.../willow-springs

They are not slow.

Dave

#103
shawnhayes

shawnhayes

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 4,641 posts
  • Joined 11-September 13

At face value, yes. But a stock z28 is probably capable of a 1:56 in stock form in the hands of a pro. Not to take away from Russ, we're all learning and that's a massive improvement!

But he may have dropped the same amount of time with no setup changed given more seat time. I went from 2:03 first time there to 1:57 with 0 setup changes, still on OEM rubber.

I think to evaluate setup changes properly you have to be running against the limits of the setup, and the change one thing at a time. Otherwise skill, experience and multiple variables confound any meaningful results.
As another data point one of those z28 in stock trim is 2 seconds quicker around big willow than my car, same driver. http://fastestlaps.c.../willow-springs

They are not slow.

Dave

 

You're right for sure, but everything is relative unless you control perfectly all the variables.  The z28 can be fast, but the pros do much better in the car when compared to your normal HPDE driver.  GT-R is much easier to drive fast.

 

Shawn



#104
thehelix112

thehelix112

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 3,708 posts
  • Joined 14-June 13
  • LocationLos Angeles, CA


You're right for sure, but everything is relative unless you control perfectly all the variables. The z28 can be fast, but the pros do much better in the car when compared to your normal HPDE driver. GT-R is much easier to drive fast.

Shawn


True. But if we're talking about hpde drivers, how many of them do you think would be able to pick Rb vs stock brakes in a blind test? I'd put money on none. I doubt I could do it.

Dave

#105
shawnhayes

shawnhayes

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 4,641 posts
  • Joined 11-September 13

True. But if we're talking about hpde drivers, how many of them do you think would be able to pick Rb vs stock brakes in a blind test? I'd put money on none. I doubt I could do it.

Dave


Totally stock? Stock pads? In a heartbeat.

The RB system is SOOOO much better than the stock system on the stock pads that it's not even funny.

But with the same pads?

The feel is "different". I can say for me "better", because they are easier to modulate. Engagement to lockup is much more apparent to your foot. So back to back I could tell, even on the same pads. I bet you could too. Maybe not which one was best, but how they felt. Some drivers like immediate lockup at the 1/2 way point of braking. I do not. I like it at a lower pedal travel, but that's just me.

Shawn

#106
thehelix112

thehelix112

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 3,708 posts
  • Joined 14-June 13
  • LocationLos Angeles, CA
I should've said calipers. My bad.

The calipers would be the last thing I'd change in the system, but the pads and rotors, absolutely. The difference between stock and j-hook+carbotech is obvious and immediately apparent.

Maybe one day I'll try the upgrade and see for myself. :-)
  • destroid likes this

#107
shawnhayes

shawnhayes

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 4,641 posts
  • Joined 11-September 13

I should've said calipers. My bad.

The calipers would be the last thing I'd change in the system, but the pads and rotors, absolutely. The difference between stock and j-hook+carbotech is obvious and immediately apparent.

Maybe one day I'll try the upgrade and see for myself. :-)


As far as feel, the RB calipers are advantage as above, but adding the following:

1. The shit dust seals on the stockers. They burn up almost immediately. The RB's require replacement, but keep the pistons nice and clean.
2. Pad changes - driving out the stock brembo pins and screws is a pain. RB's are better.
3. Springs and noise - stocks make more noise.
4. Caliper protection - landing area for pad is protected on RB caliper by replaceable spring. Stock caliper just wears there. Check yours anytime, you'll see.
5. Caliper removal for disc changes - the hard lines for the OEM ones increase the pedal feel, but the flexible lines on the RB one allow you to move the caliper around and get the disc on and off with much less fuss. The number of rotor changes I have done in eight years alone makes this a significant issue.
6. Proper clearance for bigger rotors - the ZR1 rotors and 390mm AP ones I have fit since having my RB's have fit MUCH better in that caliper. I'm convinced that pad cooling and wear has been less due to it.
7. Pad taper - every pad I had on the stock system tapered. Worst on the pagid CCM'. RB's do this much less.

Shawn
  • destroid, Warren-RB and BAZ007 like this

#108
Warren-RB

Warren-RB

    Stage 4 Member

  • Member
  • 491 posts
  • Joined 20-January 14

Above is a well summarized advantage of how a better built caliper can indeed improve the brake efficiency and save you pad and rotor replacement. However since not many (in fact none) offers "Caliper Replacement" (unlike pad and rotor having a lot of choices), so most consumers would never think of this alternative is possible unless a complete aftermarket brake kit is purchased.

 

Camaro Z28 is another community started to realize the benefit of this totally OE compatible caliper upgrade.

 

http://www.camaro5.c...08&postcount=15


www.RacingBrake.com

#109
BAZ007

BAZ007

    Stage 4 Member

  • Member
  • 629 posts
  • Joined 24-January 15

*
POPULAR

Thought it would be nice sharing these pictures in here as well

Attached Images

  • File_001 (17).jpeg
  • File_000 (29).jpeg

  • Tim, Carmiwrx, thehelix112 and 3 others like this

#110
dinny

dinny

    Stock

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 24 posts
  • Joined 08-November 15
You might be able to answer the following question tried different rotors and after washing csr the brake pads are locked on to the rotor.. Is this an ABS fault or what. Several reports of this from other owners

#111
7racer

7racer

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 6,895 posts
  • Joined 24-March 13

You might be able to answer the following question tried different rotors and after washing csr the brake pads are locked on to the rotor.. Is this an ABS fault or what. Several reports of this from other owners

 

do you have one of those pad spreaders?

if not you should be able to remove the caliper with the pad still stuck onto the rotor then try to tap/knock them off, but I haven't ever heard it to be that extreme


In7anity!!


#112
dinny

dinny

    Stock

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 24 posts
  • Joined 08-November 15
Thanks for your reply.. You can break the bond between the disc and rotors by engaging drive but you will a bang when they let go.. I have had a lot of cars but never had this problem with the brakes after washing the wheels...

#113
shawnhayes

shawnhayes

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 4,641 posts
  • Joined 11-September 13

Thanks for your reply.. You can break the bond between the disc and rotors by engaging drive but you will a bang when they let go.. I have had a lot of cars but never had this problem with the brakes after washing the wheels...


All of my race pads and race rotors do this on every car I've had.

Shawn

#114
dinny

dinny

    Stock

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 24 posts
  • Joined 08-November 15
Hi Shawn have been getting fault code C1111 lately and getting ABS unit from Titan motor sports Orlando and thought the two faults might be connected.. Why do the pads stick to the rotor on the gtr

#115
shawnhayes

shawnhayes

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 4,641 posts
  • Joined 11-September 13

Hi Shawn have been getting fault code C1111 lately and getting ABS unit from Titan motor sports Orlando and thought the two faults might be connected.. Why do the pads stick to the rotor on the gtr


The abs unit on the cba is known to go bad frequently.

The pads stick to the rotors on the GT-R because of their nature. All pads and rotors that fit the GT-R are high performance with high adhesive and high metal content. So when you wash them or get them wet, they stick.

Shawn

#116
dinny

dinny

    Stock

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 24 posts
  • Joined 08-November 15
Well many thanks for that info..

#117
forty-two

forty-two

    Stage 4 Member

  • OEM Member
  • 712 posts
  • Joined 19-March 13
  • LocationATX

Well many thanks for that info..

 

If car/brakes are wet, try to dry your brakes before parking car overnight/extended period, i.e. take it for a drive after you've washed it. If it's raining, then you're stuck, lol.


ATX GTROC on Facebook - link

14492399_1137348429689454_63336591853219






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: racing brake, calipers, track, rotors, track pads, brake system, brakes

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users