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DIY - How to hardwire your fuel pumps and keep all controller functionality

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#41
haul s

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Yeah, good catch.  So instead of hooking the relay's 86 to the FPCM's pin 10 it seems like hooking it to pin 7 would be the best.  That would solve your and Nick's concerns and still avoid cutting any wires if I'm not mistaken.


Not speaking from personal experience, but I suspect driving a regular relay using modulated primary pump control signal on FPCM pin 7 would not reliably trigger it all the time. I think it should trigger correctly when the primary pump is actually driven at 100% duty cycle and you really need the extra juice, though. Curious to learn your results if you decide to try this setup.

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#42
HiBoost

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Another good point. That could definitely monkey things up depending on the PWM freq they use and what the lowest possible duty cycle it outputs is. As well, I've seen PWM controllers that pulse the +12 and others that pulse the ground. So if the +12 were constant on this one it wouldn't be as much of a concern. But, I think it's clear at this point we should all just cut the damn wire and follow the original instructions lol.
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-Jeff

#43
Buschur Racing

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There is a new pump kit we will be releasing soon that is going to solve all this, no relays or secondary wiring will be needed at all:)


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#44
HiBoost

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Yeah that sounds good and all but how much does it weigh?
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#45
NickTO

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Yeah that sounds good and all but how much does it weigh?

 

getty_rm_photo_of_cold_water_on_burnt_ha


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#46
NickTO

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Another good point. That could definitely monkey things up depending on the PWM freq they use and what the lowest possible duty cycle it outputs is. As well, I've seen PWM controllers that pulse the +12 and others that pulse the ground. So if the +12 were constant on this one it wouldn't be as much of a concern. But, I think it's clear at this point we should all just cut the damn wire and follow the original instructions lol.

 

Why do you guys assume it's PWM driven?


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#47
HiBoost

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Why do you guys assume it's PWM driven?


You're right, I don't know for sure. I do know that Walbro told me their pumps can't handle decreased constant voltage but they are fine with pulsed full voltage. Now that may be the same way they "can't handle" E85 but seem to work just fine for most people. But I was using that as some admittedly weak evidence that our controller was pulsed. Suppose I could put the scope on it but dammit it's so cold out there right now ;)
-Jeff

#48
haul s

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Why do you guys assume it's PWM driven?

I don't. :)

I assume FPCM output is modulated in some way - otherwise it wouldn't be needed in the first place - but I don't know whether It uses PWM or voltage modulation. Either way, a relay would probably not trigger reliably by its modulated output.

PWM would not be a bad assumption to make, though, since it's typical in modern solid state DC motor control applications - for example, electric RC models.

Edited by haul s, 15 December 2014 - 11:30 PM.

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#49
NickTO

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Well, I don't know either, and haven't tried to figure it out except to look at the ESM, but it's ambiguous...

 

The ESM would indicate that it's voltage drops that control the mid and low signals, the keywords "Supplied Voltage" seems to indicate that:
 

dVjmKOe.png

 

However, the use of "approximately" in the voltage reading could also mean it's PWM based and the voltage ramp up causes voltmeters to read low... so I don't know :)


Edited by NickTO, 16 December 2014 - 10:39 AM.

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#50
OMG GTR

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Does anyone have pictures of each step? I understand these things alot better when looking at pictures :)

 

Also, is the wiring the same for an EDM car?


EDM2010 GT-R FBO E85


#51
jm-imports

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just bought a kit for a customer - vendor has gave the link to his product instructions to here ?



#52
NickTO

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Which kit did you buy?  Can you show us how it pointed you to here?  most interesting.


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#53
jm-imports

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weapons grade performance.

 

customer has got a bag with wires and relays and we been giving this link for his install.

 

http://shop.weaponsg...mp-hardwire-kit



#54
Doug@WGP

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weapons grade performance.

 

customer has got a bag with wires and relays and we been giving this link for his install.

 

http://shop.weaponsg...mp-hardwire-kit

Sorry JM -

 

There's another thread on this forum that I posted with a step by step for the hardwire.  Here's one way on how to wire the pumps (This method may trigger a code for the fuel pump control module, but depending on your primary pump size you may not want to use the controller):

 

1.  Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

2.  Remove the battery compartment cover to expose the firewall ECU cable grommet.

3.  Remove the rear passenger seat and fuel pump cover to expose the fuel pump electrical connections.

4.  Remove the passenger door sill and passenger footwell right side cover.

5.  Run two of the large red primary wires from the battery area to the fuel pump area through the ecu grommet.

6.  Install the inline fuses onto each of the primary wires near the battery.

7.  Mount the two supplied relays onto the vehicle body near the fuel pump cover, or wherever else is convenient for you.

8.  Please see the attached image for wiring standard automotive relays.

9.  The red primary wires you ran from the battery compartment will be attached to terminal #30 on the relays. (high power feed)

10. Black ground wires will be attached to terminal #85 on the relays, and grounded to the vehicle chassis where convenient.  Try to isolate the grounds and not attach them to another ground point.

11.  The OEM power wires to the pumps will be used as the "trigger" wires (which will cause the relay to close) (Terminal #86)

11a. There are two electrical connectors on the fuel pump basket, a 5 pin and a 2 pin.  The five pin contains the power and ground for the primary pump, and the two pin contains the power and ground for the secondary pump. 

12. Expose the wires to these connectors, and cut the wires from the two wire female plug, leaving enough room on both ends to reconnect to them.  The power wire is Orange.  The ground is Black. Connect the chassis side of the harness orange wire (power) to a relay trigger terminal.  Connect the plug side of the orange wire to terminal #87 on the relay (High Power Output - Normally Open).  Ground the plug side black wire to the chassis. 

13. On the 5 pin connector, there are two thicker gauge wires.  The pump power wire is Brown, and the ground is Green.  Cut these in a similar fashion as the two pin connector.  Connect the chassis side power wire to the trigger terminal on the relay (#86).  Connect the plug side of the power wire to terminal #87.  Ground the plug side of the Green wire (Ground) to the chassis. 

14.  You should heat shrink and solder all connectors for a permanent connection, or use high quality butt connectors or spades if you want to be able to disconnect the basket easily.  Route the wires through the grommet on the fuel pump cover and reinstall. 

15.  You can choose to leave the harness side of the two ground wires disconnected.

16.  Take care to route the power feeds away from any sharp corners or possible abrasion when running them through the interior.

17.  Connect the fused power wires to the positive battery terminal.

18.  Reconnect the negative terminal and reinstall the cover.

19.  Reinstall the interior.

20.  If you have EcuTek, you can use the fuel pump tool to test the functionality of each pump after completion.

 

Hope his helps!

 

-Doug

 

 

(Mods feel free to move this post to a separate thread if you don't want to clutter NickTOs)

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Doug Ross
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#55
jm-imports

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thank you - would anybody want me to take pics and create a sticky '??


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#56
ian.r

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thank you - would anybody want me to take pics and create a sticky '??

that could be very useful for those who need a visual guide, if your offering I think those that follow it would appreciate it a lot!

#57
ttbestas

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that could be very useful for those who need a visual guide, if your offering I think those that follow it would appreciate it a lot!

for FBO E85 car  some say  its enough to upgrade secondary pump only(walbro 450lph) But i guess i still should hot wire both pumps as per NickTO instructions from the first post? And not only one which is upgraded?



#58
evogtr

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I would appreciate pictures of install.

#59
evogtr

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Doug, is your wiring kit complete it or other parts are needed?

#60
Doug@WGP

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Doug, is your wiring kit complete it or other parts are needed?

Sorry we've stopped selling this not that other alternatives are available that are plug and play.

Doug Ross
Owner of Weapons Grade Performance
-Northeast/Pacific Northwest Shops where we ONLY work on GT-Rs
-Owner/Builder of the 1st Ever Home Garage GT-R Drivetrain Removal
Cobb Protuner / EcuTek Tuner / MoTec Calibrator
-Mainline Dyno in House
doug@weaponsgradeperformance.com
Our Online Store
East Coast Location 21B Ozick Dr, Durham, CT   West Coast Location 16726 146th St SE, Monroe, WA





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