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DIY: GTR Engine Removal

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I've decided to put together a series of DIYs as my holiday present to Heritage.  First up... GTR Engine Removal.

I'll add pictures of any parts people need clarification on.

This job is not as hard as it might sound, and you don't need any special tools or advanced mechanical skills to do it.  You will need access to a lift, but those aren't that hard to find smile.png

Here are the tools required:

Metric Sockets (1/4, 3/8, 1/2impact)
Metric Hex Drivers
Open Ended Wrenches
Phillips Screwdriver
FlatHead Screwdriver

1. Support the vehicle on the lift.  Certain lifts have arms that will make reaching the jacking points on the GT-R easy, but if you can't grab them, you can place the pads on the pinch welds that follow the edges of the side skirts on the vehicle.  Take care to not have the lift arms impact the skirts as you lift the vehicle.


2. Starting in the passenger cabin, roll all the windows down, and move the seats all the way back.  Lock the steering wheel.
3. Remove the vehicle glove box.  This is done by opening, and then tugging the bottom of the box straight out towards you which will release the retainers.  Then you can maneuver the box out from one side to the other to clear the two tabs that retain it into its housing.
4. Pull straight down on the black plastic shroud that covers the bottom of the glovebox frame.
5. Using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the 11 Phillips screws that hold the inner glove box surround in place.
5. Pull out towards the passenger door on the door HVAC cover to remove it from the side of the glovebox.
6. Remove the plastic nut that retains the lower right footwell electrical cover and remove the panel by pulling towards the driver side.
7. Lift up the passenger door sill to finish removing the kick panel cover.
8. Remove the inner glove box cover to access the ECU.   After the battery is disconnected (below) you can disconnect the ECU electrical connectors by rotating the locking levers and route them through the firewall on to the top of the engine (after you remove the shrouds as listed below).  You have to route the single long white connecter, as well as two black connectors.  You'll need to disconnect the third connection to the ECU to free the other two.

Engine Bay

Always protect paint surfaces from damages with fender covers, painters tape at panel seams, or other means.  Return removed hardware to its location after removal, or bag and tag all lose hardware with its location so you don't forget or misuse it.

9.  Disconnect the negative battery terminal (10mm), and the positive connections for the starter and alternator. (12mm)
10. Remove the hood weather stripping from the surround of the engine bay.
11. Remove the windshield wipers with a 14mm socket, after lifting up on the covers for the bolts.  It helps to angle the wiper arms up and away from the windshield to remove the tension on the splines.  Pull on the fluid hoses to disconnect them.
12. Remove the plastic engine bay rear covers for the brake fluid and battery areas by releasing all of the black plastic trim locks.  You can either use a small flathead to twist and lift, or several companies make a tool which pinches them and lifts them up.
13.  Remove the windshield wiper housings in similar fashion.
14.  Remove the radiator and front bumper upper shroud via push pins.
15.  Remove the intake manifold cover (5mm hex)
16.  Remove the bypass valve pipes at the throttle body and fender connections to the upper intercooler piping with a 7mm socket on the hose clamps.  Disconnect the MAP sensors and the bypass valve recirc hoses, as well as the vacuum lines for the valves at the manifold.
17. Disconnect the vehicle grounds from the top of the engine block on each side, and release them from their support brackets. Unbolt the lower ground/wiring harness support brackets from the driver and passenger frame rails.
18.  Remove the air intakes and disconnect the MAF sensors.  The OEM intakes require you to remove the vibration isolating foam shrouds in the front support via the push pin under the radiator shroud.
19.  Disconnect the fuel line quick disconnects by squeezing the colored locking rings and lift up.  Have rags handy to soak up any fuel that may escape, and bag the ends of the lines.  Zip tie them over the top of the engine.
20. Disconnect the EVAP hose at the firewall connection near the fuel lines.
21. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the driver side intake manifold.
22. Unbolt the low side AC hardline support bracket from the driver side top of the engine block.
23. Remove the cabin air filter plastic shroud by removing the two plastic nuts.  Release the locking clips which contain the ECU harness.
24. Remove the metal ECU harness bracket from the center of the rear firewall (6x 10mm nuts), and on DBA cars remove the secondary firewall brace as well (4x 10mm nuts)  On DBA cars you may also find it useful to remove the carbon strut tower brace. (10mm and 12mm nuts and bolts)
25. Pull up on the ECU grommet behind the battery to release it from its plastic locking ring, and disconnect the electrical connector at the grommet.
26. Route the alternator and starter harnesses into the engine bay and rest them on top of the engine.  You'll have to release several plastic locking clips, and route the starter harness under the AC hardline on the driver frame rail.
27.  At this point I find it easier and quicker to discharge the AC.  If you don't mind the extra $$ and have a means to do so, this is the easy way out.  If not, you will need to release the drive belt tension, disconnect the electrical connections, and unbolt the AC compressor from the side of the engine block (3x 12mm bolts) and move it up and out of the way to proceed.  If you choose to discharge the AC, unbolt the low side and high side fittings from the compressor and secure them out of the way.
28. Loosen the oil, radiator, and power steering caps.
29.  Disconnect the secondary air injection hose at the hose clamp on the hard line (8mm hex hose clamp) and route it through the firewall.

Front Suspension

Protect the brake calipers from paint chips and impact with coverings, painters tape, etc.

29. Remove the front wheels and reinstall one lug per side to contain the brake rotors
30. Unbolt the front calipers from the spindles (10mm hex and 12mm bolt)
31. Unbolt the front brake hardline from the spindle (12mm nut and bolt)
32.  Remove the front caliper and hang it from the upper control arm with zip ties or safety wire.
33. Disconnect the front ABS sensor and remove it from the spindle and shock
34. Disconnect the upper control arm (14mm nut and bolt) Squeeze the arm and spindle together to remove the bolt without tension.
35. Disconnect the front sway bar from the lower control arm (17mm)
36. Disconnect the shock from the lower control arm (17mm nut and bolt)
37. Remove the front fender liners (Phillips screw and push pins)


38. Remove all front vehicle under trays and unbolt the two front diffuser support bolts hidden by grommets (12mm, 10mm and push pin connections)
39. Remove the lower tunnel brace from below the midpipe/downpipe connection (6x 12mm)
40. Remove the midpipe (14mm)
41. Unbolt the steering linkage at the upper shaft and lift the shaft up to remove from the u-joint.  The connection is splined and keyed (12mm)
42. Mark the orientation and unbolt the secondary driveshaft from the front diff, or remove it completely (5x 14mm @ support brace in center, metric hex front and rear flanges)
43.  Mark the orientation and unbolt the primary driveshaft from the bellhousing or remove it entirely.  (Torx/14mm front, metric hex rear)
44. Unbolt the transmission cooling lines from the tunnel and allow them to hang freely.

Front Bumper

Always protect the front fenders from scratches by taping off the headlight surrounds and panel joints with painters tape, etc.

45. Remove the side marker lights by pushing in on the metal locking tabs in the fenderwells and disconnect the electrical connections.
46. Remove the 10mm/Phillips bumper support bolts that hold the bumper to the fender behind the marker lights (2 per side)
47. Remove the push pins that retain the top of the bumper under the radiator shroud.
48. Pull gently up and away from the car to release the locking tabs that hold the sides of the bumper below the headlights.
49 On DBA cars, disconnect the LED strip light electrical connections and remove the bumper.
50. Disconnect the lower 3" intercooler piping from the hard pipes and bottom intercooler outlets. (7mm hex hose clamps)


Zip-Lock bag all open hose ends to prevent drips and contamination.

50.  Drain the vehicle oil and remove the filter.  Reinstall the plug and filter after to prevent drips.
51.  Drain the vehicle coolant through the radiator drain plug (Phillips)
52.  Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator.
53.  Remove the Upper radiator hose and overflow hose from the filler neck.  On 2009 cars, remove the throttle body cooling line from the filler neck.
54.  Remove the Coolant Overflow bottom hose from the tank, and disconnect the heater core return line from the driver side engine coolant hardline.
55. Disconnect the power steering low pressure hose at the barb fitting on the bottom of the radiator, and unbolt the support bracket from the radiator shroud (2x 10mm)
56. Unbolt the engine oil cooler support bracket, and remove the oil cooler shroud.
57. Unbolt the engine oil cooler from the frame and let it hang.  Alternatively, you can disconnect the two flanges and drain the oil cooler (2x 10mm per flange)


58. Support the engine cradle on a suitable level surface or four jack stands.
59. Unbolt the 19mm long bolts that contain the lower control arm aluminum pivot bearing.
60. Remove the four 19mm bolts that hold the cradle to the frame.
61. Slowly raise the vehicle off of the engine cradle. Check for anything that is rubbing or snags on the way up.
62.  Once you're about half way up, disconnect the heater core feed hose from the coolant crossover Wye at the rear of the engine block.
63.  Continue to raise the vehicle until it is clear of the engine.



  • Polivoks, Tim, celsius and 5 others like this

Doug Ross
Owner of Weapons Grade Performance
-Northeast/Pacific Northwest Shops where we ONLY work on GT-Rs
-Owner/Builder of the 1st Ever Home Garage GT-R Drivetrain Removal
Cobb Protuner / EcuTek Tuner / MoTec Calibrator
-Mainline Dyno in House
Our Online Store
East Coast Location 21B Ozick Dr, Durham, CT   West Coast Location 16726 146th St SE, Monroe, WA



    Stage 4 Member

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Moved to DIY Guides, source link left temporarily, and linked in the useful DIY thread.






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So far Instructions are very good engine is out thank you, do you use OEM Nissan Engine Slinger or can i use Bolt 2 Washer chain in between and lift it up for Engine Subframe and Engine Seperation work






    Stage 4 Member

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If you have the slingers you can use them, if not you can use a chain and leveler on the Bolt holes for the slingers on each side of the cylinder heads.

Doug Ross
Owner of Weapons Grade Performance
-Northeast/Pacific Northwest Shops where we ONLY work on GT-Rs
-Owner/Builder of the 1st Ever Home Garage GT-R Drivetrain Removal
Cobb Protuner / EcuTek Tuner / MoTec Calibrator
-Mainline Dyno in House
Our Online Store
East Coast Location 21B Ozick Dr, Durham, CT   West Coast Location 16726 146th St SE, Monroe, WA

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