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Shawn Hayes GT-R maintenance thread

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#1
shawnhayes

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Just a note for all you guys.  Wefordus asked that I do my own maintainance thread.  But, you need to take careful note of the next paragraph.

I'm nuts.  When it comes to car care and fluids, I often do the craziest things, and I can't always explain them, other than the commitment to doing an "experiment".  So it is known before you read.

Detailed below is a narrative describing the maintainance I've done so far, and musings to myself I've made while doing it:

1. Oil change - 1750 miles.  Stuff was black as soot.  This was within several hundred miles after I got the car (I bought it used).  I used one quart Syntec 5W-50, one quart valvoline synthetic 10W-30, and the rest Mobil-1 0W-40.  The oil filter I used is an OEM mitsubishi Evolution oil filter (fits, seems to have a higher capacity than the Nissan one, and I know has a higher burst pressure and huge amounts of filter area, I prefill with oil before installation).  Used Honda 14mm aluminum crush washer IN CONJUNCTION with Nissan stupid little copper one (which is nearly impossible to remove from the plug)

Note to self: Consider finding appropriate magnetic drain plug to replace OEM plug.  Check windage tray for clearance before installation.

2. Found four inch screw through right rear tire between tread blocks while removing hubcaps for track event.  Odd.  (vandalism?)  Repaired with silicone patch from outside, one bottle Tire Slime on the inside.  One pound pressure difference that I had corrected weeks prior should have clued me in.  Considered wisdom of running 150mph plus on "repaired" tire.  Dismissed fear due to right rear tire sees the LEAST heat on a clockwise road course, and defect is between tread blocks and should never touch pavement.  Kept mental note to check repair regularly.  Refilled with atmospheric air rather than pure nitrogen.  Noted almost no difference in tire pressures/temperatures so far even under track conditions.

Track Event occurred, approx 2800 miles.

3. Rear LSD lubricant change - 3700 miles.  Fluid was relatively clean.  Magnetic plug was contaminated by scads of material, but fluid appeared clean.  Replaced with a 1/3 mixture of Castrol 75W-140 OEM fluid, 1/3 Mobil-1 75W-140 LS fluid, and 1/3 mix of Diaqueen 90W LSD and 85W GL-5 and GL-4 gear oils with generic limited slip additive (a superb LSD mix I have used in the past, but considering how often I change in a track season, I could probably put Crisco in and get away with it).  Turned OEM aluminum crush washer over (I bought replacements, and replace if the washer looks bad, or doesn't compress when I'm installing).

3. Transmission fluid change - 3700 miles.  Dark green fluid.  Darker than what I got for replacement.  Rear end panels a HUGE pain to disassemble with only jacks and jackstands to support the car.  Noted squashed crush washer on drain plug.  Noted weird requirement for 5mm hex driver to remove both the plug and the "drain tube" (see NickTO's blog).  Had 10 quarts on hand to do the change.  Only required seven.  Hmm.  Maybe this thing isn't going to be so unaffordable after all.

Note to self: Consider trying to find some way to get the aluminum crush washer from Nissan for the drain plug without having to buy the pan.  Get backup 5mm hex drivers incase the only one I have breaks.  I'd hate to do a "midnight" craftsman run.  Next time, get pan gasket so I can clean the magnets.  Maybe WillAll will sell their pan with removable magnets without the radiator to reduce cost, and allow upgrading to the radiator as an added cost option later.  Hmmm.

Other note to self: Consider using 1/2 Willall fluid and 1/2 OEM fluid for next change.  This stuff seems awfully changed from original for only 3700 miles.  Also will inspect WillAll fluid on arrival for telltale "garbage" smell of GL-4 or GL-5 additive package.  Consider using one quart GL-4 oil in WillAll/OEM mix for next change if that appears to be the case.  Reconsider over drinks risk of clutch damage.  Consider risk to tranny if oils are too thin.  Hmmm.  New Tranny $16,000, replacement clutch pack (strengthened) probably $3000.  Hmm. Think that one over REAL hard.

4. Rear brake bleeding - 3900 miles.  Hopefully, it was going to "gravity bleed" like my EVO before it.  Thankfully it did, but is PAINFULLY slow.  Rear brake fluid almost the same color as stock fluid.  No change, suggesting the heat in the rear was very little in my first track event. (I didn't push too hard).  Note to self - rear pads wearing at ALMOST SAME RATE as the fronts.  Odd.  Maybe the ESP uses the rear brakes to correct the attitude of the car in an oversteer like the Viper? (New Jersey Motorsports Park was stupid wet on May 17).  Used ATE super blue DOT 4 racing fluid to top up the reservoir while bleeding.  Bled system until ATE super blue changed the color of the rear fluid to blue (only appears to need 3-4 ounces between brake reservoir and rear brakes).

Note to self: Get backup rear brake pads before next track event (I always travel with spare front pads and rotors due to observed experiences)

5. Oil change - 4500 miles.  Again, drained fluid much darker than I anticipated, but little fuel smell this time, and particulates seem much less.  Note to self: removing Mitsubishi oil filter with the front sway bar in the way is a GIANT PITA due to increased diameter of Mitsu canister.  Consider Amsoil, PureOne, or Mobil filter after current supply of filters exhausted.  Replaced oil with one quart Castrol Syntec 5W-50, one quart Pennzoil Platinum 5W-50, one quart Castrol Edge 5W-30, one quart Valvoline synthetic 10W-30, and the remainder Mobil-1 0W-40.  Used Mitsubishi EVO filter (prefilled with oil as above).

Note to self: Consider in between track changs changing only oil and not filter.  Oil access door is easily removed, and oil appears to drain readily.  Filter probably up to 6000 miles of usage (even track).  File away for later consideration.  Remind self to get magnetic drain plug for next change.

6. Front diff fluid change - 4500 miles.  Oh, my great creater above.  While the fluid is still normal color, the amount of solid metallic particles stuck to the VERY thoughtful magnetic plug installed on the drain plug was HUGE.  Seemed almost as much or more as ANY of the large magnetic plugs I've ever had on any car (Honda automatic tranny, Mitsu EVO tranny, Mitsu EVO rear LSD, Mitsu EVO center diff, Porsche 914 transaxle).  The material removed looks like solid state graphite that you used to be able to get from hardware stores for lubricating automotive locks.  Considering the very small fluid capacity of this diff, the amount of solids in this diff is concerning.  The only diff that I've ever known to have nearly this much solids, and small fluid capacity is the EVO center diff.  Replaced fluid with near 1/2 Castrol 75-140 OEM fluid and 1/2 Mobil-1 75-140 LS fluid (small amount of leftover Diaqueen mix in that fluid as well - see rear diff fluid change above).

7. Front brake bleeding - 4500 miles.  Wow.  While the fluid from the front diff is impressive in solids, the color change of the OEM fluid in the front when subjected to heat rivals that of old neglected brake fluid (new - honey clear, old neglected - coca cola).  Bled fronts until ATE super blue came through blue.  Surprising little fluid capacity for these calipers sizes (maybe one to two ounces).

Note to self: Always wondered why ATE super blue is blue.  Blue would very succesfully disguise this color change.  ATE is a very good "high temp" racing fluid, and should be fine with regular bleeding, but that is a very good marketing thought.  

Anyway, the above is an ongoing experiment.  Comments are appreciated, but "you're going to void your warranty" is pretty much a waste of all our times.  The way things are, you can treat this thing like a glass Christmas bulb, spend thousands of dollars in dealer service, and nearly as much in fluids, and have a warranty (and maybe a ruined first gear ANYWAY), or we can wring this thing out, and try different schedules and fluids, and find out if it's as well built as we believe it is.  I choose the latter.  Although the proof of the "crazy" stuff I'm doing above probably won't be for 100,000 or more miles, but we'll see.

Shawn          


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#2
shawnhayes

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snapback.pngthebishman, on Jun 7 2009, 05:16 PM, said:

Thanks for your thoughts about routine maintenance.

A couple of my thoughts:

1. How about trying straight 10W-60 Castrol TWS from BMW as per the M5? It might cure the oil situation re: turing black so quickly and might decrease the 'fuel' odor some notice in their engine oil.

Given, probably a good idea, especially for HPDE, but the problem is the "in between".  Between HPDE's, I daily drive mine.  To and from the event, and in low temps.  The 10 is probably a little high.  However, the "40" likely is the problem for the Mobil-1 0W-40.  If you look at it REAL close, it's probably more like a 0W-34 (check bobistheoilguy forums, although now mobil sponsored, very credible info there).  Ideally, if we could get a "0W-45", or less ideally a "0W-50" with long term shear stability, we'd probably solve most of the problems, but throw away some highway fuel efficiency (and on track too).  The mixtures I've been toying with come close, but I found something perhaps even better.

Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil.  Check the MSDS.  Zinc 20% higher than the 0W-40.  Viscosities VERY close (this is probably REALLY a 40 weight at engine temperature).  A one half mix of this stuff and the 0W-40 may fit the bill by itself, but I'm still experimenting with the higher weight mixes to see what happens.

So, in conclusion, I agree with the 10W-60 idea wholeheartedly for racing.  Both the Castrol and the WillAll will fit the bill, but for daily driving?  I'm not sure.

What I need to do is send this current mixture off for analysis.  Any suggestions?  The current standard seems to be Blackstone labs.  But I'm up for your suggestions.

 

snapback.pngthebishman, on Jun 7 2009, 05:16 PM, said:

2. Willall will in fact just sell you the increased capacity and finned transmission oil pan: give Sharif a call at Forged Performance.

Ah HAH!  I suspected so.  But, I worry about the little "plug" - that comes offf.  Yeeeeehaaa.  Although, that could be said about the cooling lines as well.  But, in my experience, cooling lines come off less easily than plugs, but I dunno.

 

snapback.pngthebishman, on Jun 7 2009, 05:16 PM, said:

3. The differential issues are very troubling. I am going to change out my diff oil both front and rear with the Motul product after this coming weekend's HPDE event. Any thoughts on using Motul or perhaps the Willall product?

Yes on both.  I'm wondering if we're dealing with "break in" rather than "wear" though.  I believe we may see less when we change the second and third times.  However, the two things I'm interested in is maintaining current or normal wear rate, and decreasing cost.  The Willall product is near (or above) the Castrol fluid, and there's no proof so far it's better.  The Motul is near, but a little less than the Castrol.  The Mobil-1 is $14 a liter from AutoZone and Advance Auto.  As frequently as we may be changing this fluid, over time, at $30 per quart MORE for the better fluids, we could just buy an upgraded "carbon" differential (about 20 times will just about buy it).  If you can do the fluid change with Mobil-1 20 times, and the diff croaks because it was Mobil-1 and not Castrol, then you've saved yourself enough to buy a new diff.  However, my suspicion is that we will see the early initial wear level off, Castol, Motul, Willall, or Mobil.  I don't know.  We'll see.

 

snapback.pngthebishman, on Jun 7 2009, 05:16 PM, said:

4. I saw temps of 252F in the transmission during a day with ambient temps of 60-70F at my last HPDE. I am seriously thinking of a transmission oil cooler in the near future. You?

Bish

Well, my temps were more in the 214-220 range with ambient temps at NJMP near 85, but I was WAYYYYY lolligagging, learning the cars limits.  (moving up from an EVO IX MR, this is a HUGELY different car, much more "rear drive" than an EVO, which behaves much more "front drive").  This weekend, I'm doing VIR grand with MazdaClub, and ambients are expected in the high 80's, but with rain likely.  I'll get back to you on that.

On a side note from this, the Corvette guys I hang with all have transmission coolers.  However, when they forget to turn them on, the increased capacity and finned pans make up MOST of the temperature decrease.  Think about it for just one second.  Just ONE LITER of increased fluid capacity will be a 10-15% increased thermal mass to absorb all that heat.  Just changing the pan to aluminum and NO DESIGN change might increase it by another 5%.  Add fins.... you get the picture.

What I'm hoping is that buying the pan alone will conquer most of the issue, with the added insurance that I can "upgrade" to the lines and cooler later (with the above noted reservation about the stability of the "plug").

But, I echo your concern.

Shawn          



#3
shawnhayes

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View Postwefordus, on Jun 8 2009, 07:39 AM, said:


If you want the fins on an aftermarket transmission cooler to work you'll need the SSP Transmission Cooler that extends below the underbody panel. Otherwise there is little airflow under the transmission.
SSP trans pan

Note the choice of deep pan or shallow pan.


You might want to talk to V8_Killer about what they offer too. Look at this trans cooler...

MVP

Noted. However, I believe theve there is more airflow under there than it seems apparent. Aside from that though, just the additional fluid volume is significant, and the passive cooling if there was almost NO airflow would be helpful.

I'm sure you've noted the NACA type ducts in the undertray just forward of the transmission pan. It can be seen in this blowup as well:

http://www.gtr-world...nel-unveil.html

I believe this is the reason for the grill behind the exhaust. The airflow from the forward NACA duct cools the transmission pan, and the NACA duct in front of the differential is CERTAINLY providing some airflow (hence the heavy airfinned differential). It is also my belief that PART of the reason we're seeing so much front differential fluid degradation and solids is inadequate cooling. There is little to no cooling of that differential other than whatever airflow escapes past the radiators (but of course, this air has now been heated).

I'm sure that ducting is there for a reason. At speeds that I'm seeing on track (120-130 for several seconds at a time), that airflow may be much more significant than we think. 70-80 degree air at 120 MPH may cool the 220-250 transmission pan much more than we know, just by itself.

While you may certainly know more about this beast than I do, I'd like to try it just to find out, before I start cutting my undertray. Thanks for the thoughts, though. I learn more about this every day, and I'm willing to learn more.

Shawn

#4
shawnhayes

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Subnotes:

If you're going to do this, get several "plugs" for the front bumper and a small bag of "clips" from the Nissan dealership. They're not that expensive.

The transmission drain plug (with washer I presume) can be ordered from the Nissan dealershi for approx $5.00. The drain tube can be obtained for $15. I ordered both for safety. Maybe I will only be using the drain plug at first, with the tube in reserve for "just in case".

Transmission gasket is $35. Fairly reasonable. May be worthwhile to get if you plan to remove the pan to clean the magnets (given prior experience, this is what I would recommend).

Further musings:

WillAll (arrived today) has typical "garbage smell" of GL-4 and GL-5 fluids. Martin has confirmed the WillAll is a GL-5 additive package, but there appears to be an additional "tackifier" to make the clutches adhere properly. We MIGHT, and I stress this, just MIGHT find an acceptable GL-4 or GL-5 fluid that will replace the transmission fluid. For now, we have to accept $50 per quart, and if you don't change every 1800 miles and don't track, the current fluid will be perfectly reasonable for a car of this expense.

I will probably use one quart of GL-4 oil during my next transmission change with three quarts of Nissan fluid, and the rest topped off with WillAll, and see what happens. I know I'm nuts, but it might just work out.

Note to self: BE VERY CAREFUL when opening WillAll fluid container. Due to dents during shipping, the pressure within the container MIGHT be increased from when it was filled (duh, guess what happened).

Also note to self: The red dye added to the WillAll is PARTICULARLY obnoxious when it comes to carpet (guess how I found that out?).

Other note: the M12-1.25 magnetic drain plug to fill this void of magnetic plug for the oil pan is proving to be elusive. I haven't looked online yet, because I prefer to locally source what I can (good to be able to palm what you're shoving into your $75,000 car).

Shawn

#5
shawnhayes

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View Postwefordus, on Jun 9 2009, 12:09 AM, said:


No. It's hard to watch the temp gauge & drive on the track. But I usually look at it during the cool down lap. I have seen 250-260 degrees on mine... And I'm not pushing it too much. The others on this forum that track their cars have seem higher. I'm sure they'll chime in. Ask Sharif what his temps have been too.

Considering your good outcome of the Blackstone labs analysis of your transmission fluid (even after track events), do you think that maybe we're just being a little too paranoid? Maybe seeking out better fluid and cooling is just overkill?

Or did Nissan make us that way with the "1800" miles inspection (and JDM post track event inspection)?

Shawn

#6
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View Postwefordus, on Jun 9 2009, 07:41 AM, said:


That oil change had only 4 track days on it. And I was in the green and blue run groups (beginners). The outdoor temps were in the 40-70 degree range. So hitting 250 degrees is bad in my opinion.

While I agree that temperature is worrisome, your fluid analysis should have shown the fluid degradation if it was going to happen quickly. Four full track days is two HPDE "weekends", quite a bit of track miles. I'm encouraged by your experience.


View Postwefordus, on Jun 9 2009, 07:41 AM, said:


Are some a little paranoid? Yes I think so regarding the metal wear particle issue. I think the trans is just breaking in. The metal should decrease over time. Unless of course, one over stresses the transmission as some drag racers have done.

That is a very good point. It seems the transmission was thought out for road course tracks, and not for the 0-60 battles. (of course, this is what the Skyline has ALWAYS classically been for). Anyway, maybe we're just being paranoid, and everything long term might be fine.


View Postwefordus, on Jun 9 2009, 07:41 AM, said:


The transmission oil temps really bother me since the OEM fluid is based on ATF & is quite thin... I read an article somewhere that explains auto tranny fluid temps & it said the same as Nissan. If it hits 280 degrees then change immediately. They even recommended the fluid stay below 215 degrees.

I agree. I don't like the temps either. I also don't like the base stock of the lubricant. However, with non track use and frequent changes, most of us will be fine. The drag racers are at the most risk. We're at higher risk for sure. But, with higher quality fluids, and frequent changes even we're probably okay. With cooling, the risk goes even lower.

What would have been optimal, of course, have been a separate fluid system for the transaxle and clutch, with an ATF for the clutchpack, and a high quality GL-5 for the transmission. Oh well, what could have been, I guess.


View Postwefordus, on Jun 9 2009, 07:41 AM, said:


I going to attempt to make my own oil cooler using the stock pan. A new one cost me $137 shipped. I will remove the front under tray to measure the space for a cooler at the end of the month since I am due an engine oil change. Then I am going to purchase some AN fittings, braided hose, and an oil cooler & pump. I think I can keep the cost to around $500.00.

An admirable goal. However, I'm not sure we will know how this turns out until you do it. Good luck with that, and I look forward to your experience.


View Postwefordus, on Jun 9 2009, 07:41 AM, said:


I was intrigued by your post on increasing the oil capacity of the pan & its effect on fluid temps. But, since I am attempting to keep costs low, I do not want to buy a custom machined billet oil pan. I will if I have to.

I don't like to drill anything into my car. If somebody else makes a "bolt on" solution, I'm always interested. I like the low cost option you've come up with, but I'm thinking of the pan. We'll see what happens this weekend, and I'll get back to you on temps. Supposed to be hot at VIR this weekend.

Shawn

#7
shawnhayes

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View Postcmd51231, on Jun 11 2009, 09:59 PM, said:


Shawn,

What are your thoughts on the Pentosin FFL-4 that's been mentioned several times in these forums and being used quite heavily by many fellow owners overseas? It's easily accessible through local BMW dealerships and MUCH cheaper...

Probably just as good as the stock GTR fluid. I say "probably" but I don't know about the amount of Zinc in it. It seems that an adequate amount of Zinc is necessary for the differential, or, as in the WillAll, just better lubrication.

For the price, and daily driving, most likely it's fine. Will probably void the warranty anyway, though.

Shawn

#8
shawnhayes

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View Postwefordus, on Jun 9 2009, 07:41 AM, said:


That oil ch
ange had only 4 track days on it. And I was in the green and blue run groups (beginners). The outdoor temps were in the 40-70 degree range. So hitting 250 degrees is bad in my opinion.

Live report from VIR. Stock fluid. First change after the original fluid.

Ambient temp 85-90 degrees.

Transmission oil temp 258 deg F peak so far.

Obviously, next track event will have something else in the transmission pan than OEM fluid.

Of note, see the Roadracing forum for my notes on tire temps.

Shawn

#9
shawnhayes

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Final report from VIR:

VIR grand east

Drove the piss out of the car. Ambient temperatures 80-90 degrees.

Best lap, around 3:10. Suspect this could have been much better in lower temps, or with the Dunlops (I have the Bridgestones)

Peak transmission temp: 268 degrees. yeeehaaa. Bakin' brownies anyone?

Shawn

#10
shawnhayes

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New update:

5200 miles - removed transmission oil (seemed a lot less changed and dirty this time, despite high track temperatures at VIR), transmission pan, magnets and gasket. New Nissan Gasket, cleaned magnets, new drain plug installed. I reused approx 3 quarts of the GR6 OEM transmission oil. Added 1 quart GL-4, GL-5 hybrid transmission/diff oil (special warning for noobs to car maintainance - this is MY RISK only, don't try this at home - this is my experiment). The rest of the transmission I filled with WillAll.

A special note:

This mixture turns the EXACT same color as the OEM fluid when mixed. Three quarts of dark green fluid, mixed with one quart of light brown fluid, and three to four quarts of willl turns....... Dark Green.

Also of note:
It seems to me the WillAll is MUCH higher viscosity than normal weight 80 or 90 GL-4 or GL-5. If "pumpability" is the measurement, using a transfer pump, the WillAll is like pumping molasses, versus pumping water for the OEM fluid.

Tertiary note:
My pan magnets were not very dirty at all. Despite 5200 miles, with two track weekends, they were barely visibly contaminated. A full wipeage removed scads of material, but no more than I expected with that many miles. It seems that my metallic magnetic resdiual is the same as daily driving that many miles, despite the high temps and track driving.

I predict good results for this crazy experiment.

I'll give you a full report from Carolina Motorsports Park from the upcoming weekend. I'm going in seven days, and that is what prompted the fluid "modification".

Shawn

#11
shawnhayes

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5350 miles - recurring "Service Engine Soon" light.

On the way back from VIR, I got a "Service Engine Soon" light. I figured it was a "random cylinder misfire" common after track. I reset the ECU and happily drove on. One week later, it came back. Three ECU resets, it kept coming back.

Dealer visit - EVAP valve/canister malfunction. Part replaced. Everything good. So far, the WillAll/GR6/GL4GL5 transmission oil is doing well. No problems thus far.

Shawn

#12
shawnhayes

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Live report from CMP:

GTR doing well.

Fastest lap time 1:51:04.

Peak tranny temperature (1/2 Willall, 1/2 OEM fluid, and 1 quart GL4/GL5 LSD hybrid) is 280 degrees. Ambient temperature 99 degrees (no, I'm not kidding).

Of note:
The car is still on STOCK TIRES and STOCK PADS as delivered to the original owner in October 2008. I've finished 2 and 1/2 full track weekends, and still have tires and pads to spare (but the pads will not pass tech the next time, less than 50% pad wear left)

The GTR may actually save me money on tires and pads. Wow.

Shawn

#13
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View PosthoustonT, on Jul 2 2009, 10:49 AM, said:


I just had my 1,000 POS and had them change the oil....man was it dirty! I highly recommend anyone that is approaching their 1,000 mile POS to change their oil.
Peter

Agreed. It is either "blowby" or break in debris. Don't know for sure, but I recommend the same.

Further update - last track session of CMP - got "the grind" on the hot pits. Back into the paddock.

Inner pad dead. Rotor scored, but usable. Be careful, it appears this beast eats inner pads (similar to most of the high performance stock cars with brembos and no stock inner pad cooling).

Carbotech XP8's installed at 5500 miles. Will be getting a spare set of them soon.

Shawn

#14
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View PostMartin Donnon, on Jul 5 2009, 01:43 AM, said:


Shawn from the detailed oil anaysis we have had performed there is always considerable fuel dilution in GTR engine oil. Frequent changes and a good viscosity engine oil are mandatory in our experience :lol:

I concur. However, the fuel dilution should improve with a long high temp cruise (55-65 MPH for an hour or so) due to crankcase heating (or at least it does in other cars, with properly functioning PCV systems).

I've noticed that with street/track the oil level is almost 100% stable. Has this been others experience?

Shawn
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#15
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6500 miles:

replaced rear pads with Carbotech XP8's because I don't they would pass tech next month at VIR for Mazda Driver's Club.

7700 miles:

After three track events and 7700 miles, the stock Bridgestones gave up the ghost. Inner left front tire down to the cords.

Replaced with four Dunlop runflats (the OEM ones) at Harris Tire in Forest, VA. It took us 2 1/2 hours to do them all. Good lord above the sidewalls are stiffer than crap. My fat behind can stand on one of the unmounted tires with almost no deflection in the tire at all.

The Dunlops ride much, much better. I hope they are as good at the track as the Bridgestones were.

7740 miles:

Replaced engine oil again. Used a cocktail of Eneos 0W-50, Mobil 1 0W-40, Mobil 1 15W-50, Mobil 1 5W-40 turbo diesel oil, and Valvoline full synthetic 10W-30. I used a stock Nissan filter this time.

Replaced front differential fluid as well. This time, the fluid looked MUCH MUCH better. A lot less particulates, the oil was not as dark looking, and the magnet was much cleaner. Replaced fluid with a 1/3 cocktail of Motul 75W-140 synthetic, Mobil 1 75-140 synthetic, and Castrol 75W-140 synthetic. I don't like the Motul blue color. At all. It will disguise fluid "burning" detected at oil change. Crap.

Shawn

#16
shawnhayes

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October 24, 2009, 10749 miles:

Converted front pan to 2010 access points using this technique:

http://www.nagtroc.o...showtopic=34000

Thank you totsubo for detailing this. You have no idea how many hours of my life you have now saved.

Also repaired front lip with JB Weld. The height of this thing is eating that lip up. I have priced a new one from the Nissan Dealer. Ick. Oh well. I'll hold off on the purchase until the lip is "consumed" so I can't stand it anymore.

Replaced oil and filter. It's beginning to look a little more like regular oil from other cars, and not stinking so much. I used a cocktail of Eneos 0W-50, Mobil 1 0W-40, Motul 15W-50, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5W-40.

Mobil 1 - M110 filter used. Nice filter. Seems solid.

Resisted the urge to replace the front Diff fluid, but the compulsion was strong. I only have 3000 miles on that fluid. Given, some of it was track miles, but either the replacement fluids work, or they don't. Enough said.

Shawn

#17
shawnhayes

shawnhayes

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View Postmugatu22, on Nov 9 2009, 06:40 AM, said:


So have you kept a running tally of the maintenance expenses over your 10K miles? Obviously you change the fluids more often than a average non-track driver, just curious.

No, I don't keep a tally.

I made an estimate before I bought the car, and I really didn't want to know. Since you want to know, so far?

Oil - approx $150 with filters
Transmission fluid - $730 Willall
$700 Nissan
(I have leftover for a future change)
Differential fluid - $150 total (I have leftovers for future changes)
Brake fluid - $75 (yeah, not kidding, I bleed after every track event, but I've not been including that in the thread so far)
Brake rotors $1000 front
$1000 rear
Brake pads $350 front
$300 rear
Tires, mounting, balance $2000

Labor is all mine, except for the tire mount and balance, but I helped (the dealership couldn't even do it because they didn't have the machine yet)

Big numbers so far. I bought a 2004 Mini Cooper S as a daily driver to keep the overall cost of driving down.

Shawn

#18
shawnhayes

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View PostYellow Stealth, on Nov 9 2009, 01:44 PM, said:


Hey Shawn, could you please expend a little on what you meant with that statement?

My main issue with the stock summer Bridgestones is how loud they are. Are the Dunlops any quieter?

Quieter, softer, and stickier.

All around better, and appear to be wearing better on the track.

They should have been the default choice from the factory.

Shawn

#19
shawnhayes

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View Postthebishman, on Nov 9 2009, 02:58 PM, said:


Shawn,

Can you speak to how you think the transmission is holding up in your car? IIRC, didn't you end up mixing 1/2 Willall with 1/2 OEM fluid? I'm interested in temps; noise; whether you experience the 'surging issue' that can happen with 100% Willall, etc.

TIA,
Bish

So far, so good. The fluid looks green as the original fluid even with the red. No metallic residue I can find (although I haven't pulled the pan - I DID pull the pan with the original fluid, after two track events, and found what I considered to be normal metallic wear after track).

Yes, 1/2 Willall, 1/2 OEM, with 1 quart GL-4/GL-5 hybrid thrown in to cheapen the whole mix and do the experiment for the sake of doing it.

Temps are great on track, with not one time in excess of the listed tolerances, even at CMP in 99 degree south carolina heat. I have resisted the urge to change the fluid for my last event of the season. I will change it November-December this year.

Noise is definately lower in the midrange, but greater in the lower ranges. Surging began to occur maybe 1000 miles AFTER the initial change. I suspect it has a different overall behavior with the clutch pack. Maybe the "tack" agent added to the WillAll is responsible. I don't know.

I will have a physical look at the fluid when I change it. I will not send it for analysis unless somebody wants to spring for it. I think a long term test is in order, and it's what I'm doing.

Shawn

#20
shawnhayes

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10,900 miles:

Getting ready for Audi Club.  I had to do something about this:

 

1917089_104551999562298_7291056_n.jpg?oh


Edited by shawnhayes, 13 October 2015 - 08:30 AM.





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